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作 者:刘铠丽 程伟 陈雁玲 LIU Kaili;CHENG Wei;CHEN Yanling(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan,Hubei 430070,China)
出 处:《浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报》2024年第1期1-8,共8页Journal of Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology
基 金:湖北省服饰艺术与文化研究中心重点项目(2022HFG04)。
摘 要:为获得华中地区女大学生的下半身形体比例细分类型,并对应个性化女裤结构比例设计提供参数依据。以156名18~22岁在校女大学生为测量对象,结合照片测量、三维截面重合图测量以及计算项目,共获得27项下半身形态特征参数。通过主成分分析,提取了6项下体形态特征影响因子,累积贡献率达到91.821%。依据载荷系数筛选出4项下体比值特征因子细分指标,分别为前后外包厚度比(FBLOD)、腰长立档比(WLSE)、会阴腰高比(PWH)以及膝高下裆长比(KHPL),对细分指标进行K-means聚类分析,获得A~D 4种下体比例特征细分类型,依据各类型样本分布比例确定B类型为典型比例特征类型。采用B类型比例特征参数对裤装基本型比例结构进行优化调整,经Style 3D虚拟试穿舒适性检验,调整后的裤装基本型舒适性得到有效提升。This study is to obtain the lower body proportion types of female university students in Central China.and to provide a parameter basis for corresponding personalized women’s pants structure proportional design.A total of 27 lower body morphological characteristics parameters were obtained by taking 156 female university students aged 18-22 years old as measurement objects,combining photo measurement,3D cross-sectional overlap image measurement and calculation items.Through principal component analysis,six lower body morphological characteristics influencing factors were extracted,and the cumulative contribution rate reached 91.821%.And four lower body proportional characteristics subdivision indexes were screened based on the loading coefficients,which were front-to-back outer surround thickness ratio(FBLOD),waist length and crotch length ratio(WLSE),perineal height and waist height ratio(PWH)and knee height to inside length ratio(KHPL).K-means cluster analysis was performed on the subdivision indexes to obtain 4 lower body proportional characteristics subdivision types A-D,and type B was determined as the typical proportional characteristics type based on the distribution ratio of samples of each type.The proportional structure of the basic type of pants was optimized by using type B proportional characteristics parameters,and the comfort of the adjusted basic type pants was effectively improved by Style 3D virtual trial comfort test.
关 键 词:照片测量 三维截面重合图测量 体型分类 服装结构 虚拟试衣
分 类 号:TS941.17[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]
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