爱国思潮影响下民国女性服装消费变革  

The Change of Women’s Clothing Consumption in the Republic of China under the Influence of Patriotic Thoughts

作　　者：施捷[1] SHI Jie(Jiangsu Union Technical Institute,Nantong Branch,Nantong,Jiangsu 226011,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏联合职业技术学院南通分院,江苏南通226011

出　　处：《浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报》2024年第1期39-46,共8页Journal of Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology

基　　金：江苏省教育科学“十四五”规划2021年度苏教名家专项课题(SJMJ/2021/19)。

摘　　要：国货运动从民族主义的角度促进了近代纺织业生产制度的变革,也从一定程度上构建了民族主义女性消费观。民国历史语境下女性消费的行为表现和民族主义影响下国货运动,是女性服装变革的内在因素,同时,消费文化多元也促进了旗袍选择转换之间的多样化。国货运动的影响使得民国女性消费文化被赋予民族主义色彩,服饰消费观念在爱国情怀和物美价廉之间游移,旗袍的款式变化由长到短再到长,对于服饰质料的选择由洋货逐渐向国货转变。另外以旗袍为代表的女性服饰消费变得多元,随着需求的增多旗袍的款式更替频繁。民国时期旗袍消费具有鲜明的时代性,审美标准逐渐由“华洋”之争转变为中西合璧,以此促进了民族服饰文化的发展。The domestic goods movement promoted the reform of the production system of modern textile industry from the angle of nationalism,and also constructed the nationalist view of female consumption to a certain extent.In the historical context of the Republic of China,the behavior of female consumption and the domestic goods movement under the influence of nationalism are the internal factors of women’s clothing reform.Meanwhile,the diversity of consumer culture also promotes the diversification of cheongsam choice and transformation.Influenced by the domestic goods movement,the consumer culture of women in the Republic of China was given a nationalistic color,and the clothing consumption concept shifted between patriotic feelings and high quality with low price.The styles of cheongsam changed from long to short,and then to long,and the choice of clothing materials gradually changed from foreign products to domestic products.In addition,the consumption of female clothing represented by cheongsam has become diversified,and the styles of cheongsamchange frequently with the increase of demand.During the period of the Republic of China,the consumption of cheongsam had distinct characteristics of the times,and the aesthetic standard gradually changed fromthe“Sino-foreign”competition to the combination of Chinese and Western,which promoted the development of the national costume culture.

关 键 词：民国时期 爱国思潮 国货运动 旗袍 女性消费 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]