涤棉混纺段彩纱的工艺优化及风格探讨  

Discussion on process optimization and style of polyester cotton blended segmented colored yarn

作　　者：张金召 解开放 王小康 王春翔 刘常威[1] ZHANG Jinzhao;XIE Kaifang;WANG Xiaokang;WANG Chunxiang;LIU Changwei(Hunan Institute of Engineering,Xiangtan,411104,China)

机构地区：[1]湖南工程学院,湖南湘潭411104

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2024年第4期78-82,共5页Cotton Textile Technology

基　　金：湖南省教育厅青年项目(22B0729);湖南工程学院人才科研基金项目(21RC012);湖南省自然科学基金项目(2020JJ4245)。

摘　　要：为探讨涤棉粗纱混纺段彩纱的纺纱工艺与成纱风格,以涤棉混纺粗纱为原料,采用三罗拉牵伸法,通过HFX-A6型多功能细纱机来制备涤棉段彩纱。研究工艺参数(捻度、分段时间和牵伸倍数)对段彩纱风格(外观、结构、强伸性能、条干均匀度和毛羽)的影响,并根据其外观风格建立了段彩纱的周期结构模型。试验结果表明,增大辅纱分段时间和牵伸倍数对纱线风格具有积极的影响,而增大捻度对纱线风格具有消极的影响。当纺纱工艺的捻度为90捻/m,基纱与辅纱分段时间均为1 s,两根粗纱的总牵伸分别为22.8倍和24.0倍时,段彩纱的综合性能最为优异。Spinning process and yarn style of polyester cotton roving blended segmented colored yarn were discussed.Polyester cotton blended roving was used as material to prepare polyester cotton segmented colored yarn by three-roller drafting method on HFX-A6 multifunctional spinning frame.The effects of process parameters(twist,segmentation time and draft multiplier)on the yarn style(appearance,structure,mechanical property,eveness and hairiness)of segmented colored yarns were studied,and the cycle structure model of the segmented colored yarn was established according to its appearance style.The test results showed that increasing the auxiliary yarn segmentation time and draft multiplier had positive effect on yarn style,while increasing the twist had negative effect on yarn style.The best overall property of the segmented colored yarn could be achieved when the twist of the spinning process was 90 twist/m,the segmentation time of both the base yarn and the auxiliary yarn was 1 s,the total draft multiplier of the two rovings was 22.8 times and 24.0 times respectively.

关 键 词：段彩纱 涤棉粗纱 多功能细纱机 捻度 分段时间 牵伸倍数 

分 类 号：TS106.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]