传统套鞋的形制功能考析及造物思想释读  

Textual research and analysis of the shape and function of traditional overshoes and their creation concept

作　　者：魏莉[1] 刘纬桢 WEI Li;LIU Weizhen(Academy of Fine Arts,Minzu University of China,Beijing 100081,China)

机构地区：[1]中央民族大学美术学院,北京100081

出　　处：《丝绸》2024年第4期137-148,共12页Journal of Silk

基　　金：中央民族大学混合式教学改革项目(XJ-HHJG2207)。

摘　　要：“套鞋”是中国传统鞋履中实用与审美相结合的功能性样式,它们与人类的生产生活共生共存。本文以收藏家钟漫天先生提供的典型“套鞋”标本为主要研究模本,同时结合史料,针对性地对中国传统套鞋结构形制及其功能进行研究,并在其基础上对传统套鞋的造物思想进行探讨;强调考物与文献相结合而重考物的方法,对实物标本一手资料进行系统的信息采集,通过文献考证和实物结构的比较研究,力求展现中国传统套鞋的文化力量和个性风韵,为多元一体的中华文化特质提供一个生动的鞋履范式。“Overshoes”are a functional style of traditional Chinese shoes that combine utility and aesthetics.They are designed to protect fabric shoes from dirt and to prevent people from slipping when walking.They coexist with human production and life.From a material point of view,traditional overshoes are directly consumable items of folklore.From the intangible point of view,they are cultural folklore that combines human wisdom and craftsmanship.Therefore,the folk culture of traditional overshoes has irreplaceable characteristics and demonstrates the Chinese cultural trait of“pluralistic integration”.This paper takes the representative specimens of“overshoes”provided by the collector Mr.Zhong Mantian as the main research model.At the same time,the study combines historical records.In particular,it focuses on the form and function of traditional Chinese overshoes.On this basis,the article explores the concept of the creation of traditional overshoes.It emphasizes the combination of specimens and documents.Moreover,it systematically collects primary research data on physical specimens.Through the comparative study of documentary evidence and the structure of physical specimens,five conclusions are drawn.First,the degree of focus on functionality of traditional Chinese overshoes is much greater than the decorative attributes,and their shapes are extremely closely related to the materials from which they are made,presenting a diversified and personalized situation.Second,the basic guiding principle in the design of traditional overshoes is to serve the productive life of people.The basic need is for people to feel comfort and convenience on their feet when they wear shoes.Third,when people choose the materials for traditional overshoes and design their shapes,the goals are to respect nature and make the best use of them.At the same time,these designs should be able to adapt to changes in the natural environment,ceremonial rules and ethnic integration,showing strong adaptability and inclusiveness.Fourth,influenc

关 键 词：传统套鞋 鞋履形制 功能鞋 制鞋工艺 造物思想 标本研究 

分 类 号：TS943.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]