颜料与线密度对原液着色涤纶短纤维及纱线颜色的影响  

Influences of pigment and linear density on spun-dyed polyester staple fiber and yarn

作　　者：卢韵静 王雪 齐元章 宋琳 廉志军 李鑫 LU Yunjing;WANG Xue;QI Yuanzhang;SONG Lin;LIAN Zhijun;LI Xin(College of Textiles,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China;State Key Laboratory of Biobased Fiber Manufacturing Technology,China Textile Academy,Beijing 100025,China;Lufeng Weaving and Dyeing Co.,Ltd.,Zibo,Shandong 255100,China;China General Technology(Group)Holding Co.,Ltd.,Beijing 100161,China;College of Materials Science and Engineering,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学纺织学院,上海201620 [2]中国纺织科学研究院有限公司生物源纤维制造技术国家重点实验室,北京100025 [3]鲁丰织染有限公司,山东淄博255100 [4]中国通用技术(集团)控股有限责任公司,北京100161 [5]东华大学材料科学与工程学院,上海201620

出　　处：《纺织学报》2024年第3期97-105,共9页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家重点研发计划项目(2020YFB0311400,2016YFB0302800)。

摘　　要：为掌握原液着色涤纶短纤维的颜色对其纱线颜色变化的影响规律,选取红、黄、蓝3种颜色半消光原液着色涤纶短纤维,根据实际生产中主要调整的参数,系统研究了颜料质量分数、纤维线密度对其色度值的影响规律;同时,考察了从纤维到纱线(线密度为20 tex,捻系数为300)的色度值变化,并与特定规格半消光染色短纤维、大有光原液着色短纤维进行对比。结果表明:颜料质量分数显著影响半消光纤维的色度值,在浅、中色之间的差异尤为明显,是中、深色之间的2倍;线密度对纤维色差(ΔE_(CMC(2∶1)))的影响不大,黄色的色差变化较红色、蓝色更明显;半消光原液着色短纤维到纱线的色度值变化不明显,色差在0.8~2.6范围内;在半消光染色纤维中,黄色的色差变化偏大,为3.4~3.9,红色、蓝色与原液着色的色差相当;大有光原液着色涤纶短纤维到纱线的变化与半消光染色短纤维的更为相似,二者的色差ΔE_(CMC(2∶1))、明度差ΔL、饱和度差ΔC以及色调差ΔH基本相同,说明对于特定的颜色类型,可借鉴染色纱线的配色经验,为原液着色纱线配色模型的系数调整提供支持。Objective The large-scale application of spun-dyed fiber corresponds to multi-spes and differentiated fiber production.However,a long transition cycle when changing the fiber color type or pigment content generates a large amount of transition material or waste in this process due to the generally large capacity of the device.Therefore,it is necessary to understand the influences of pigment type,content,and fiber linear density on the color of spun-dyed fibers,as well as the color variation from fiber to yarn,so as to guide more effectively the development and application of spun-dyed staple fibers.Method The influences of pigment content(0.3%,0.9%,and 1.5%)and fiber linear density(1.56,2.78,3.89 dtex and 6.11 dtex)on the chromaticity values of semi-dull spun-dyed polyester staple fibers red,yellow,and blue were systematically investigated.In parallel,the variation of chromaticity values from fiber to yarn(linear density of 20 tex,twist factor of 300)was examined and compared with specific specifications of semi-dull dyed staple fibers and bright spun-dyed staple fibers.Results The results showed that the variation of pigment content significantly affected the chromaticity values of the semi-dull fibers,especially from light-color fiber to medium-color fiber,which is twice as much as between medium-color fiber and dark-color fiber.The chromatic aberrationΔE_(CMC(2∶1))for yellow fibers was 21.8 and 8.4,respectively,which is about three times higher than that for red and blue,mainly because of the contribution of the hue differenceΔH.The influence of fiber linear density variation onΔE CMC(2∶1)was not significant,and the higher the linear density,the weaker the effect.Similarly,theΔE CMC(2∶1)of yellow was more obvious than the other two colors.When producing products such as yellow,especially fine denier fibers,adjusting the linear density required reconfirming the pigment formulation.In general,the variation of chromaticity values from semi-dull spun-dyed staple fiber to yarn was not significant,withΔE

关 键 词：涤纶短纤维 原液着色纤维 颜料 线密度 色度值 纱线配色 

分 类 号：TS102.522[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]