中国传统纱罗织物的创新探讨——以苏罗为例  

The Innovative Exploration of Traditional Chinese Leno Fabric--Taking Suluo as an example

作　　者：朱立群 李笑苏 ZHU Liqun;Li Xiaosu(Suzhou Jinda Silk Co.,Ltd,Suzhou,Jangsu,215000,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州市锦达丝绸有限公司,江苏苏州215000

出　　处：《江苏丝绸》2024年第1期22-29,共8页Jiangsu Silk

摘　　要：纱罗,即绞经织物,其生产技艺历史悠久,是宝贵的非物质文化遗产。本文概述纱罗织物工艺的类别,现行提花纱罗织物的主要结构及特性。结合“压金云霞翟纹霞帔”等考古复原产品,重点介绍四经和五经绞织物。例举苏罗产品的创新发展成果,介绍珠光粉印花提花罗,双面异色四经罗、苏云纱等新产品,以及服饰风格和文化创意产品的多样化运用。Leno silk,known as twisted warp fabric,has a long history of production techniques.It is also a precious intangible cultural heritage.This article provides an overview of the craftsmanship types of leno fabric,as well as the main structures and characteristics of current jacquard leno fabric.Combined with archaeological restoration products such as the"traditional Chinese shawl of pressed gold,rosy clouds,and Zhai Bird pattern",the article focuses on introducing four-warp-twisted and five-warp-twisted fabrics.the article also gives examples of the innovative development achievements of Suluo products,introduces new products such as pearl powder printed jacquard leno,double-sided cross colored four-warp-twisted jacquard leno,and Su Yun leno,as well as the diversified use of clothing styles and cultural creative products.

关 键 词：纱罗织物 绞经 考古复原 创新发展 

分 类 号：TS145.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]