儒家情礼观念交融下宋本《西园雅集图》中文士服饰的文化意涵  

The cultural implication of the Chinese scholar's dress in the Hsi-Yuan Ya-chi pictures of the Song Dynasty is blended with the Confucian sentiment and ritual concept

作　　者：阮秋月 卞向阳[1] RUAN Qiuyue;BIAN Xiangyang(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051

出　　处：《东华大学学报（社会科学版）》2024年第1期42-49,共8页Journal of Donghua University:Social Science

基　　金：国家社会科学基金艺术学重点项目“观念史视野下的中国历代服饰与当代汉服传承”(项目编号:21AG013)。

摘　　要：宋代《西园雅集图》再现了“西园雅集”这一历史场景。本文以宋代李公麟、刘松年以及马远的《西园雅集图》为研究对象,分析画卷中文士们的服饰造型,并从儒家情礼观念的角度分析其着装意图与意涵。通过研究发现,画卷中的文士服饰体现出文人相聚之纵“情”,以及宋代文人之守“礼”。通过将三人画卷中的文士形象进行比较,可以发现按照时间的推移,画卷中文士的形象及其演变折射出宋代情礼观念的逐渐融合,具有丰富的文化意涵,为“西园雅集”的研究提供了新的研究视角。The Hsi-Yuan Ya-chi pictures of Song Dynasty reproduce a historical scene.Taking the works of Li Gonglin,Liu Songnian and Ma Yuan in the Song Dynasty as the research object,this paper analyzes the costume style of the Chinese scholars in the paintings,and analyzes the intention and meaning of their dress from the perspective of Confucian sentiment and ritual.Through research,it is found that the scribes'costumes in the scroll reflect the"love"of the literati gathering together and the"rites"of the literati in the Song Dynasty.By comparing the images of scribes in the three scrolls,it is believed that the images of the Chinese scribes in the scroll and their evolution reflect the gradual integration of the concepts of love and rites in the Song Dynasty with the passage of time,which has rich cultural significance.It provides a new perspective for the study of the Xiyuan Gathering.

关 键 词：《西园雅集图》 文士服饰 观念史 情礼观念 服饰文化 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]