紫草植物染料对天丝织物的印花工艺研究  

Research on printing process of Arnebia euchroma dye on Tencel fabric

作　　者：丁春燕 吕诗怡 寿怡婷 许衡渊 DING Chunyan;LU Shiyi;SHOU Yiting;XU Hengyuan(Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology,Ningbo 315211,China;Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江纺织服装职业技术学院,浙江宁波315211 [2]浙江理工大学,浙江杭州310018

出　　处：《染整技术》2024年第3期29-32,共4页Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal

基　　金：宁波市“科技创新2025”重大专项(2021E002);宁波市先进纺织技术与服装CAD重点实验室2022年度开发基金项目(2022ZDSYSA-002)。

摘　　要：探究了紫草植物染料在天丝织物上的印花工艺。以海藻酸钠、瓜尔豆胶、羧甲基纤维素钠为原糊,测试印花后织物的K/S值,分析了染料用量、汽蒸温度、汽蒸时间、渗透剂用量对印花效果的影响。结果表明,海藻酸钠作为原糊用于紫草植物染料对天丝织物印花具有良好的印花效果,优化印花工艺参数为:染料7.5%,汽蒸温度105℃,汽蒸时间30 min,渗透剂JFC 3%;在此工艺条件下,印花天丝织物的耐皂洗色牢度和耐摩擦色牢度均能达到3~4级或以上。The printing process of Arnebia euchroma on Tencel fabric was explored.Sodium alginate,guar gum,and sodium carboxymethyl cellulose are employed as thickeners.The K/S value of the printed fabric is tested to analyze the effects of dye concentration,steaming temperature,steaming time,and penetrant dosage on the printing effect.The results show that sodium alginate,as the thickener,has an excellent printing effect on dyeing Tencel fabric with Arnebia euchroma.The optimal printing process parameters are as follows:dye mass concentration 7.5%,steaming temperature 105℃,steaming time 30 min,and the mass concentration of penetrating agent JFC 3%.With these process conditions,the color fastness to soap washing and rubbing of printed Tencel fabric can reach levels 3~4 or above.

关 键 词：紫草 植物染料 天丝 印花 

分 类 号：TS194.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]