楮岛沙滩不同时间尺度变化特征与波能流密度相关性探讨  

Exploration of the temporal scale variation characteristics of Chudao Beach and its correlation with wave energy flux density

作　　者：李永青 尤再进 LI Yongqing;YOU Zaijin(State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering,Dalian University of Technology,Dalian 116024,China;Centre for Ports and Maritime Safety,Dalian Maritime University,Dalian 116026,China)

机构地区：[1]大连理工大学海岸和近海工程国家重点实验室,辽宁大连116024 [2]大连海事大学港口与航运安全协同创新中心,辽宁大连116026

出　　处：《海洋工程》2024年第2期157-170,共14页The Ocean Engineering

基　　金：NSFC-山东联合重点基金资助项目(U1906231)。

摘　　要：在波浪和水流的作用下,泥沙在不同时间尺度下的运动会引起沙滩的冲淤演变,对海岸资源有重要的影响。因此,了解沙滩季节性演变规律,并采取针对性的防护措施,是近岸沙滩亟须解决的问题。目前,现场观测是研究沙滩剖面冲淤演变的重要方法,通过沉积物组成、岸滩坡度及波浪动力的时空变化,了解沙滩剖面的变化特性,对于沙滩管理和海岸保护具有十分重要的意义。基于2017年9月—2019年11月在荣成楮岛南岸沙滩每个月采集一次的剖面数据,以及波浪动力数据,分别探究了沙滩在不同时间尺度下的变化特征,并对沙滩变化特征与波浪动力因素的相关性进行了探讨。研究发现:楮岛南岸沙滩形态变化具有较强的季节性特征,春季沙滩比较稳定;夏季沙滩受台风影响侵蚀严重,但在风暴过后的短时间内,沙滩泥沙恢复较快;冬季沙滩恢复速度逐渐减缓并趋于稳定。在夏季和冬季期间,波能流密度的向岸分量对楮岛南沙滩的演变产生重要作用,而且波能流密度向岸分量的均值(选取数据采集前15d的波浪条件参与计算)与沙滩体积的相关性最好,并给出了两者的线性拟合公式。The movement of sediment under the influence of waves and water flow causes changes in the beach profile at different temporal scales,significantly impacting coastal resources.Understanding the seasonal evolution of beaches and implementing targeted protective measures are urgent issues for nearshore beaches.Currently,field observations are crucial for studying the profile changes of beaches.By analyzing the temporal and spatial variations in sediment composition,shore slope,and wave dynamics,understanding the characteristics of beach profile changes becomes essential for beach management and coastal protection.This study,based on monthly profile data collected from September 2017 to November 2019 on the Southern Beach of Chudao in Rongcheng,along with wave dynamic data,explores the characteristics of beach changes at different temporal scales and discusses the correlation between beach change characteristics and wave dynamic factors.The research reveals that the southern beach of Chudao exhibits strong seasonal characteristics in morphological changes,with stability in spring,severe erosion during typhoons in summer,and rapid sediment recovery shortly after storms.In winter,the beach recovery rate gradually slows down and tends to stabilize.During summer and winter,the onshore component of wave energy flux density plays a crucial role in the evolution of the southern Chudao Beach.The mean onshore component of wave energy flux density(calculated using wave conditions from the first 15 d of data collection)shows the best correlation with beach volume,and a linear regression formula is provided.

关 键 词：楮岛沙滩 沙滩剖面 季节性演变 波能流密度 时间尺度变化 

分 类 号：P748[天文地球—海洋科学] TV148[水利工程—水力学及河流动力学]