皮肤类型与产品剂型对化妆品舒缓功效评价的影响  

Differential effects of skin types and product base materials on cosmetic soothing efficacy assessment

作　　者：余慧 郁晓艺 高业成 陈晶 欧景磷 张云英 闫永涛 李晓敏 YU Hui;YU Xiao-yi;GAO Ye-cheng;CHEN Jin;OU Jing-lin;ZHANG Yun-ying;YAN Yong-tao;LI Xiao-min(Perfect(Guangdong)Commodity Co.,Ltd.,Zhongshan,Guangdong 528451,China;Perfect Life Sciences Research Institute Co.,Ltd.,Zhongshan,Guangdong 528451,China)

机构地区：[1]完美(广东)日用品有限公司,广东中山528451 [2]广东完美生命健康科技研究院有限公司,广东中山528451

出　　处：《日用化学品科学》2024年第4期31-36,共6页Detergent & Cosmetics

摘　　要：研究和比较了不同肤质人群对常规胶带剥离法造成红斑的刺激敏感性,在此基础上考察和比较霜剂和水凝胶基质舒缓产品对于不同肤质人群所产生红斑的舒缓效果。选择30名18~65岁的健康者作为研究对象,在志愿者前臂内侧皮肤标记出4块3 cm×3 cm的区域随机标记为空白区、阴性对照区、舒缓霜区和舒缓凝胶区。空白区不做任何处理,其余区域以胶带剥离致损法造成红斑模型,在胶带致损前、致损后5 min分别用无创检测仪器采集各组皮肤红斑图像,检测皮肤红斑EI值,经皮失水率TEWL,比较油性、干性、中性、混合型4种类型皮肤在致损前后的红斑和失水率差异;致损后10 min开始在测试区域涂用舒缓产品,空白区和阴性对照区不涂抹任何产品。测定使用后20 min、50 min(造模后30 min、60 min)的皮肤图像、EI值以及TEWL值,比较和评价不同基质舒缓产品对于不同肤质的红斑舒缓功效。结果显示,不同肤质对于胶带剥离法造成的红斑情况有显著差异,油性和干性皮肤的红斑更明显,持续时间更长;施用舒缓产品后,舒缓霜与舒缓凝胶均对红斑有一定的改善效果,但对不同皮肤的红斑舒缓作用具有一定的差异。测试选用的凝胶剂对干性皮肤的红斑改善效果较好,而选用的霜剂对于中性、混合性、油性皮肤具有更好的改善效果。结果提示模型方法需考虑人群肤质情况,同时不同基质的化妆品对于不同肤质类型人群具有一定的适用性。In order to assess the responses of different skin types stimulated by tape stripping,two kinds of brand cosmetics of cream and hydrogel were separately applied to evaluate the individual soothing effect of the product on different skin types.A total of 30 volunteers aged 18~65 years were recruited,which were divided into four groups(oily,dry,normal and combined skin type)according to the oil secretion ability of facial and T zone skin.Four 3×3 cm of skin areas on inner forearm of each volunteer were chosen and randomly marked as blank,negative control,soothing cream and soothing gel.The blank area was kept untreated,and the remaining areas were tape-stripped by 10 times(Transparent universal 1527C-1,3M China Co.,Ltd.)to disrupt the stratum corneum and induce erythema.Images,erythema index(EI)and transepidermal water loss rate(TEWL)of the marked skin areas before and 5 min after tape stripping were taken to assess the distinct responses of different skin type to the taping treatment.Ten minutes after tape striping,the soothing products were applied to the test area,and the skin images,EI and TEWL at 20 min and 50 min(corresponding to 30 min and 60 min post stripping test,respectively)were measured after cosmetics application to compare and evaluate the soothing effect of the cream and hydrogel on different skin types.Results showed that different skin displayed diverse reactions to the tape stripping,and the oily skin was more sensitive with longer duration of erythema than other skin types.After the application of soothing products,both cream and hydrogel could relieve skin erythema,while the soothing effects are dependent both on skin types and the cosmetic base materials:hydrogel has a better efficacy in alleviating erythema and TEWL of dry skin,while the cream is more effective on normal,oily and combined skin types.The results suggest that the soothing evaluation should consider the skin types of the volunteers,and the cosmetics of different base materials might have the target skin types.

关 键 词：舒缓 功效评价 皮肤类型 化妆品基质 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]