一种化妆品去角质功效评价方法和应用  

A method of evaluating the efficacy of cosmetics exfoliator and its application

作　　者：赖沁润 许思思 艾艳 朱思阳 LAI Qin-run;XU Si-si;AI Yan;ZHU Si-yang(Hong Zheng Dao(China)Traditional Chinese Medicine Research Company,Guangzhou,Guangdong 510630,China;Hua An Tang Biological and Technology Group,Guangzhou,Guangdong 511400,China)

机构地区：[1]弘正道(中国)中药研究有限公司,广东广州510630 [2]花安堂生物科技集团有限公司,广东广州511400

出　　处：《日用化学品科学》2024年第4期38-42,共5页Detergent & Cosmetics

摘　　要：通过对染色皮肤表面颜色进行测量,为化妆品去角质功效评估提供科学的试验方法。采用5.0%二羟基丙酮(Dihydroxyacetone,DHA)对受试者手前臂内侧皮肤角质层染色,通过测量2款样品使用前后被染色皮肤表面L*、b*,并计算ITA及其恢复率评价其去角质功效。结果显示,未经DHA染色前受试者各测试区域皮肤表面L*、b*和ITA具有一致性(P≥0.05);染色后,被染测试区域皮肤均无任何不良反应且L*、b*、ITA的变化具有一致性(P≥0.05);连续7天使用2款化妆品后对应区域皮肤L*、b*和ITA相对于阴性对照区域具有显著(P<0.05)的改善,但不同参数对2种化妆品的去角质功效评价结果存在差异;2款样品ITA恢复率相对于阴性对照区域具有显著(P<0.05)的改善。研究表明,使用5.0%DHA染色皮肤角质层,并通过测量皮肤表面颜色变化参数ITA恢复率能灵敏准确地评估皮肤角质层更新速度差异,此方法可以作为评价化妆品去角质功效的手段之一。Measuring the tanning skin can provide a scientific method to evaluate the efficacy of cosmetics exfoliator.Dihydroxyacetone(DHA,5.0%(w/w))was used to stain the inner forearms cuticle of subjects.The skin surface L*and b*were determined,then ITA and its recovery rate were calculated to evaluate the exfoliating efficacy of cosmetics.The results showed that no significant(P≥0.05)differences were observed for L*,b*and ITA on different skin surface of unstained subjects.After staining with DHA,no adverse reaction was found in the stained areas,and the changes of L*,b*and ITA on different skin surface were consistent(P≥0.05).Two different cosmetics were used continuously to exfoliate the skin in different areas.After treatment for 7 days,L*,b*and ITA of the corresponding skin areas had significant(P<0.05)improvement in comparison with the negative control area.But there were differences in the evaluation results of the exfoliating efficacy using these three parameters.The recovery rate of ITA of two samples improved significantly(P<0.05)than the negative control area.The work indicates that using 5.0%DHA for skin browning and measuring the skin surface color change by ITA recovery rate can accurately and sensitively assess the skin cuticle renewal rate.This method can be used as one of the effective ways to evaluate the exfoliating efficacy of cosmetics.

关 键 词：二羟基丙酮 去角质 皮肤个体类型角 恢复率 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]