轻薄型精纺纯毛可机洗毛织物的开发  

Development and research of worsted light pure machine washable wool fabric

作　　者：王科林[1,2] 刘雍 张佐平[2,3] 韩振邦 孟霞[2,3] WANG Kelin;LIU Yong;ZHANG Zuoping;HAN Zhenbang;MENG Xia(School of Textile Science and Engineering,Tiangong University,Tianjin 300387,China;Shandong Ruyi Wool Garment Group Co.,Ltd.,Jining,Shandong 272073,China;Shandong Ruyi Nogara Textile Garment Co.,Ltd.,Jining,Shandong 272073,China)

机构地区：[1]天津工业大学纺织科学与工程学院,天津300387 [2]山东如意毛纺服装集团股份有限公司,山东济宁272073 [3]山东如意路嘉纳纺织服装有限公司,山东济宁272073

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2024年第4期25-30,共6页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：为实现毛织物可机洗、提升其服用性能和尺寸稳定性,解决毛织物不易护理的问题,通过分析对比丝光羊毛与普通羊毛纤维的表面形貌和染色性能的差异,针对性地设计纺纱、织造和整理各道工艺参数,纺制出轻薄型普通羊毛和丝光羊毛织物,并对2种织物的主要物理指标和水洗尺寸变化率进行测试与分析。结果表明:与普通羊毛相比,丝光羊毛纤维的鳞片层基本被剥除,纤维整体呈现均匀、光滑的外观,染料上染百分率高,颜色更浓深;纺制出的轻薄型丝光羊毛织物水洗尺寸变化率满足GB/T 26382—2011《精梳毛织品》中可机洗类产品水洗尺寸变化率考核指标要求,属于可机洗类产品,实现了产品开发预期目标。In order to realize machine washability of wool fabric,improve its wear performance and dimensional stability,and solve the problem that wool fabric is not easy to care.By comparing the surface morphology and dyeing properties of mercerized wool and ordinary wool fiber,the spinning,weaving and finishing process parameters were designed to spin light and thin ordinary wool and mercerized wool fabric,and the main physical indexes and washing size change rate of the two fabrics were tested and analyzed.The results show that,compared with ordinary wool,the scale layer of mercerized wool fiber was basically removed,and the fiber presented a uniform and smooth appearance,with higher dye percentage and deeper color.The washing size change rate of the light and thin mercerized wool fabric produced meets the requirements of the assessment index of washing size change rate of the machine washable products in GB/T 26382—2011"Combed Wool Fabric",and belongs to the machine washable products,achieving the expected goal of product development.

关 键 词：毛织物 丝光羊毛 可机洗 精纺毛织物 

分 类 号：TS136[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]