基于三维试衣的中老年凸腹粗腰体型旗袍结构优化  

Structure optimization of cheongsam based on 3D fitting for the elderly women with convex thick waist body

作　　者：王诗怡 王薇 吴世刚 WANG Shiyi;WANG Wei;WU Shigang(School of Textile Clothing and Design,Changshu Institute of Technology,Suzhou,Jiangsu 215500,China)

机构地区：[1]常熟理工学院纺织服装与设计学院,江苏苏州215500

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2024年第4期55-62,共8页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：中国纺织工业联合会高等教育教学改革研究项目(2019197,2019210);常熟理工学院高等教育教学改革项目(JXK202321);常熟理工学院校级一流课程建设项目(JXK202337)。

摘　　要：为了解决中老年女性因体态变形所导致的穿衣不适问题,针对中老年凸腹粗腰体型女性,以旗袍为例,分析其穿着正常号型旗袍的弊病,并借助CLO3D虚拟试衣软件和3D图易立裁软件构建凸腹粗腰体型模型,采用虚拟立裁的方式自动生成优化后的特体纸样。对正常号型旗袍纸样与特体纸样进行叠加分析,获取影响凸腹粗腰体型着装的重要部位因素,并通过虚拟试衣与样衣制作、真人试穿进行主客观动静态实验,验证纸样叠加分析的准确性和有效性。结果表明:虚拟模特与真人穿着修正后的旗袍更加合体,解决了前腹部紧绷,后腰以及两侧缝堆砌衣褶,裙摆向上翘等问题,为凸腹粗腰服装设计提供参考价值,同时也为未来的服装数字化定制提供新的可能。In order to solve the problem of dressing discomfort caused by body deformation of middle-aged and elderly women,the disadvantages of middle-aged and elderly women with convex belly and thick waist were analyzed in this paper by taking cheongsam as an example,and a convex belly and thick waist body model with the help of CLO 3D virtual fitting software and 3D Style Image draping software was built,and optimized special patterns were automatically generated by virtual cutting.The superposition analysis was carried out on the normal shape cheongsam pattern and the special shape pattern,and the important factors affecting the dress of the convex belly and the thick waist were obtained.The subjective and objective dynamic and static experiments were carried out through virtual fitting,sample making and real person fitting,to verify the accuracy and effectiveness of the superposition analysis of pattern.The results show that the modified cheongsam is more suitable for virtual models and real people,which solves the problems of tight front abdomen,stacked pleats at the back and both sides,and upturned skirt,etc.,thus providing reference value for the clothing design with convex abdomen and thick waist,and also providing new possibilities for the digital customization of clothing in the future.

关 键 词：中老年人 特殊体型 凸腹粗腰 旗袍 CLO3D 3D图易立裁 结构优化 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]