同源而异流:中国蓝印花布与日本小纹比较研究  

Same Origin but Different Trends:A Comparative Study of Chinese Blue Calico and Japanese Komon

作　　者：盛羽[1] Sheng Yu(Ningbo University-University of Angers Joint Institute at Ningbo University,Ningbo 315211,China)

机构地区：[1]宁波大学昂热大学联合学院,浙江宁波315211

出　　处：《浙江大学学报（人文社会科学版）》2024年第3期100-111,共12页Journal of Zhejiang University:Humanities and Social Sciences

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究一般项目(20YJA760066)。

摘　　要：中国蓝印花布和日本小纹的工艺原理相同,但呈现出粗犷与细腻两种完全不同的风格特征。两者除了在承印物、防染糊、印制方式和染色方法等工艺流程上存有差异,还在图案造型元素、组织形式与图案主题等方面存在区别。究其原因,除了手工艺人通过技术革新与分工合作造就了不同的工艺流程以外,更重要的是两者因属于不同的社会阶层而导致审美意识的差异,最终形成了同源而异流的风格走向。The technical principles underlying Chinese blue calico and Japanese komon are fundamentally identical.Nevertheless,they manifest divergent stylistic characteristics,encompassing ruggedness and subtlety.Conducted through comprehensive field research and comparative analysis,the investigation revealed distinctions not only in substrates,anti-dyeing pastes,printing,and dyeing techniques,but also in pattern modeling elements,organizational structures,pattern themes,and color selections.These differences collectively contribute to a pronounced disparity in artistic styles between the two.The Chinese blue calico pattern endeavors to establish a harmonious interplay between central and peripheral elements,primary and secondary components.This concerted effort aims at constructing a visual representation imbued with ethical and moral significance,conveying auspicious meanings.Japanese komon never cares about extra meanings,it achieves visual purity from weaker individuality and cluster effect,by refining stylistic elements,attenuating image contrasts,and simplifying organizational structures,to express the object itself.Outwardly,the craftsmen specializing in blue calico and komon have crafted distinct styles through the implementation of technological innovations and a strategic division of labor.In reality,despite the widespread popularity of blue calico in rural areas and the urban development of komon,the two textile forms cater to distinct user demographics.Furthermore,their respective association with different societal classes gives rise to varied consumer needs.To effectively align with the preferences of their target consumers,diverse product types and usage scenarios have been developed,thereby presenting distinctive aesthetic appearances.In terms of technology,during the Song Dynasty,when the process of medicine spot cloth became mature,the processes of brocade,embroidery and Kossu had been perfected and widely accepted by the upper class,while the alkaline anti-dyeing agent of the medicine spot cloth process

关 键 词：蓝印花布 小纹 传统工艺 防染印花 

分 类 号：TS194.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]