三色绒感纱架贾卡提花鞋材一体成形设计  

Integrated for Ming Design of Three-color Velvet Feel Yarn-frame Jacquardfor Shoe Fabric

作　　者：孙园园 张琦 张燕婷 Sun Yuanyuan;Zhang Qi;Zhang Yanting(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《针织工业》2024年第4期35-39,共5页Knitting Industries

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(61902150);中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(JUSRP122003)。

摘　　要：针对传统经编贾卡提花鞋材缺少绒感风格,或者部分经编贾卡织物因增加绒感而导致生产工序冗杂且提花效应不明显的问题,提出在经编机上利用纱架贾卡实施绒感提花鞋材的一体成形编织方法。首先在分析纱架贾卡经编机技术参数的基础上,研究鞋材织物绒感的形成方法与提花原理;然后以双针床纱架经编机RDPJ6/1和WKCAD为开发平台,选用涤纶、阳离子改性涤纶和锦纶纱线进行绒感提花鞋材的贾卡意匠图、排版与工艺一体成形的流程设计,并完成上机织造。结果表明:利用纱架贾卡经编机并采用双针床对绑工艺,可成功实现三色绒感提花鞋材的快速一体成形编织,在简化贾卡鞋材绒感织物复杂生产工序、提高生产效率的同时,也丰富了经编鞋材的种类与风格,并拓宽了贾卡织物的应用范围。In order to solve the problem that traditional jacquard shoe fabric is lack of velvetfeel,and the production process of traditional velvet feel shoe fabric is complicated and the jacquard effect is not outstanding,a kind of forming design process of kntting jacquard shoe fabric on the warp kniting machine based on yarn-frame jacquard is put forward.Firstly,on the basis of analyzing the technical parameters of yarn-frame jacquard warp knitting machine,the forming method of velvet feeling and jacquard principle are studied.Then,using double needle bar warp kniting machine RDPJ6/1 and WKCAD as development platform,polyester,cationic modified polyester and nylon yarns are selected to carry out the design of jacquard notation,layout and process,and the machine trial knitting.The results show that the use of the yarn jacquard warp knitting machine and the double needle bar"binding in pair"technology can successfully achieve the rapid forming knitting of three-color velvet feel kniting jacquard material,which can not only simplify jacquard material sense of wool fabric complex production process to improve production efficiency,but also enrich the kinds and styles of warp knitting shoes material,and widen the application range of jacquard fabric as well.

关 键 词：绒感提花鞋材 经编纱架贾卡 鞋材一体成形技术 双针床对绑工艺 三色效应 

分 类 号：TS184.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]