防寒服开口设计对其保暖性能的影响研究  

Study on the influence of opening design of cold-proof clothing on its thermal insulation

作　　者：李鑫鑫 马亮 王云仪[1,2] LI Xinxin;MA Liang;WANG Yunyi(College of Fashion and Design,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室,上海200051

出　　处：《丝绸》2024年第5期87-93,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项基金项目(2232023-08);上海市科学技术委员会合作项目(21130750100)。

摘　　要：为探究开口设计对防寒服隔热性能的影响程度,文章对门襟、袖口及领口三个主要的服装开口进行排列组合,通过暖体假人实验探究不同环境温度下、不同开口设计对防寒服隔热性能的影响。结果表明:三种开口的优化设计均对防寒服总热阻有显著影响(p<0.05),其影响程度为领口>袖口>门襟,同时温度会影响三种开口设计对服装隔热性能的提升效果;5℃时服装总热阻最大提升率达7.20%,-10℃时同款防寒服总热阻仅提升5.27%。门襟设计对上臂、下胸及后腰部位的服装隔热性能提升明显,局部服装热阻变化率达6%;环境温度5℃下袖口束紧设计可将手部及下臂部位的服装局部热阻提升7.00%;领口束紧设计可将下胸、腹部、后背、后腰部位的服装局部热阻提升10.00%。研究结果可为防寒服的开口结构设计提供量化的依据和参考。The human body dissipates heat rapidly at low temperatures,and it faces the risk of freezing,frostbite,and even death if it fails to maintain the physiological thermal balance.It is an efficient way of promoting the thermal insulation of the garment to achieve the thermal balance of the human body by changing its opening design.Although many studies have been conducted on the impact of clothing(including the style and pattern)or the external temperature on heat transfer of clothing,most of them focus on one single factor,with the combined factors being rarely discussed in depth.This paper discussed the impact of different arrangements and combinations of three main opening designs of clothing,including the front flap,the cuff and the collar,on thermal insulation performance of cold-proof through thermal manikin at various temperatures.The findings of this study are expected to provide significant instructions for consumers and quantitative reference for the opening design of cold-proof clothing.In the experiment,the study selected a one-piece suit as the original garment to carry out different opening designs,and obtained three types of single-opening clothing,namely,2#clothing with a widened and thickened front fly(2 cm wider and 0.4 cm thicker),3#clothing with tightened cuffs(with a binding size of 16 cm),and 4#clothing with a tightened collar(with a binding size of 30 cm).Such designs are the three main opening designs of cold-proof clothing.The three single-opening designs of 2#-4#were arranged and combined in order to accurately quantify the influence of each opening and combination design on the overall and local thermal resistance of clothing.Four kinds of multi-opening optimization designs were obtained:5#front fly widening and thickening+cuff tightening,6#front fly widening and thickening+collar tightening,7#cuff tightening+collar tightening and 8#front fly widening and thickening+cuff tightening+collar tightening.The study used a Newton thermal manikin to measure the thermal insulation of 34 separate se

关 键 词：防寒服 服装结构 开口设计 暖体假人 服装热阻 温度 

分 类 号：TS941.17[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]