宋锦八达晕纹样嬗变及文化意蕴探析  

Study on the evolution of the Song brocade Badayun pattern and its cultural implication

作　　者：吴志明 杜程 孙涛[1] WU Zhiming;DU Cheng;SUN Tao(School of Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学设计学院,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《丝绸》2024年第5期105-110,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究规划基金项目(21YJA760073)。

摘　　要：八达晕纹样是宋锦典型几何纹样之一,题材缤纷多彩、结构严谨清晰、色彩繁而不乱。文章结合织物图像和古籍文献资料,梳理并归纳八达晕纹样嬗变规律,分析八达晕纹样变化成因,深入探究其蕴含更深层次的文化意蕴。研究表明:宋代至清代,八达晕纹样受政治意识、经济发展、文化交流及织锦技艺等多种因素的影响,其嬗变主要体现在骨骼架构由简至繁、设色搭配由素至艳、装饰纹样由俭至奢,并以外显和内隐的方式表达出古人对理性审美秩序之认同、对吉瑞安康寓意之渴望、对立德修身精神之追求。研究成果有助于宋锦纹样承传发展,可为八达晕纹样创新设计提供借鉴。The Badayun pattern,composed of circular,square and other symmetrical geometric figures,originated the ancient concept of“round sky and square earth”.The structure of“rice(米)”in this pattern represents geographical orientation,and the pattern contains the“nine palaces and eight diagrams”in traditional Chinese philosophy and culture,and it is further developed under the influence of Neo-Confucianism in the Song Dynasty.As a model of the geometric patterns of Song brocade,the Badayun pattern is deeply loved by the court and nobles because of its colorful pattern images,rigorous and clear composition form,complex but not chaotic color style and auspicious and healthy meaning,and is widely used in painting and calligraphy mounting and brocade dress pattern design.Based on ancient fabric images and ancient literature records,this paper sorted out and summarized the changing rules of the artistic characteristics of the Song brocade Badayun pattern,analyzed the historical causes of the changes,explored its deeper cultural implications,and drew the three major conclusions.First,from the Song Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty,the evolution law of the artistic characteristics of the Song brocade Badayun pattern was mainly reflected in the skeletal framework from being simple to being complex,the color conbination from being simple to being gorgeous,and the decorative pattern from being single to being multiple.Second,from the Song Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty,the changes in the artistic characteristics of the Song brocade Badayun pattern were mainly influenced by a variety of factors,such as the awareness of political rights,the growth of economic development,the development of cultural exchanges and the improvement of brocade skills.The consciousness of political power provided the necessary prerequisite for the spread of patterns,the economic development provided the objective conditions for the spread of patterns,the cultural exchange phenomenon provided the inspiration for the evolution of patterns,and the impro

关 键 词：八达晕纹样 宋锦 纺织品 嬗变规律 历史成因 文化意蕴 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] J523.1[艺术—艺术设计]