重构新中国时尚:1955年服装改革运动与民族化设计探析  

Restructuring Fashion in New China:A Study of the 1955 Clothing Reform Movement and Nationalized Design

作　　者：郑颖 Zheng ying

机构地区：[1]上海大学上海美术学院

出　　处：《艺术设计研究》2024年第2期5-13,共9页Art & Design Research

摘　　要：学界对新中国服装的固有印象一直停留在严肃而刻板的制服文化。本文旨在深入分析1955年的服装改革运动①这一现象,并探究在统一的新中国制服语境中服装改革运动的兴起背后涌现的政治、经济、文化等多重因素。通过审视民众对该运动的态度和相应行为反馈,进一步剖析新中国服装形成单调性的复杂成因。在对服装样式的筛选和讨论中,体现当时社会意识与观念,而围绕服装样式展开的多方讨论则构建了一场自上而下的美学探索。同时,文章将聚焦本土化设计在该改革运动中的体现,通过这些追问试图拓宽学界对新中国服装文化的固有概念和印象,亦提供了一种新中国时期的服装文化解读的新视角。The academic perception of clothing in New China has remained entrenched in the serious and rigid uniform culture.This paper aims to conduct a thorough analysis of the phenomenon of the 1955 clothing reform movement and explore the multiple factors,including political,economic,and cultural influences,that contributed to the emergence of the clothing reform movement within the unified context of new China's uniforms.By examining the public's attitudes and cor-responding behavioral responses to this movement,the paper further dissects the intricate factors behind the monotonous nature of fashion in New China.The se-lection and discussion of clothing styles reflect the societal consciousness and perspectives of that time,while the multidimensional discussions surrounding cloth-ing styles construct a top-down aesthetic exploration.Simultaneously,the paper will focus on the manifestation of localized design within this reform movement.These inquiries aim to broaden the academic understanding of the inherent concepts and impressions of Chinese fashion culture,providing a fresh perspective on interpreting the fashion culture of the New China era.

关 键 词：服装改革运动 新中国 民族化设计 郁风 

分 类 号：J523[艺术—艺术设计]