中山装创制与黄隆生无关的史实  

The Historical Fact that the Creation of the Zhongshan Suit Has Nothing to Do with Huang Longsheng

作　　者：朱博伟 刘瑞璞[1] Zhu Bowei;Liu Ruipu

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院

出　　处：《艺术设计研究》2024年第2期42-48,共7页Art & Design Research

基　　金：国家社科基金后期资助重点项目“中山装史稿”(项目编号:22FYSA004)的阶段性成果。

摘　　要：“孙中山以南洋企领文装为基样改制翻领四贴袋中山装并交由黄隆生裁制”,这几乎成为中山装创制的“正史”。本文基于文献、图像和实物史料的系统研究表明,中山装不仅与黄隆生没有关系,企领文装甚至是齐领文装的误读,亦不存在改制。事实上,中山装并非单一的服装款式,而是从帝制到共和特殊历史时期,翻领中山装和立领中山装共同构成的服制系统。齐领文装为立领中山装的前身,是孙中山早期革命活动的标志性服饰之一,且从未对其进行改制。它作为南洋华侨执政官制服,经历了从英式文员套装到南洋齐领文装礼制演化的历史背景,为1929年南京国民政府颁布《服制条例》以中山装为基础定制文、武官制服埋下了伏笔。Sun Yat-sen's adaptation of the Nanyang Qilin Wenzhuang into the four-pocketed Zhongshan suit,tailored by Huang Longsheng,has long been regarded as the official history of the Zhongshan suit's creation.However,a systematic study based on literary,visual,and tangible historical sources demonstrates that there is no connection between the Zhongshan suit and Huang Longsheng.Furthermore,the notion of the Qilin Wenzhuang might has been misconstrued as Qiling Wenzhuang,and there is no evidence supporting the idea of modification.In reality,the Zhongshan suit represents not a singular garment but a com-plex sartorial system that evolved from the imperial to the republican era.It encompasses both the flipped-collar and standing-collar Zhongshan suits.The Qiling Wenzhuang served as a precursor to the standing-collar Zhongshan suit and stood as a symbolic attire in Sun Yat-sen's early revolutionary activities,undergoing no alterations.Initially worn by overseas Chinese officials,it underwent a ceremonial dress code evolution from British-style office suits to the Nanyang Qiling Wen-zhuang.This historical transformation laid the foundation for the 1929 issuance of the"Regulations on Dress"by the Nationalist Government in Nanjing,which used the Zhongshan suit as the basis for customizing both civil and military uniforms.

关 键 词：中山装 黄隆生 齐领文装 服制条例 

分 类 号：J523[艺术—艺术设计]