精梳工艺路线对涤棉混纺面料风格影响  

Effect of combing process route on polyester cotton blended fabric style

作　　者：王彦彦 任家智[1,2] 王旭真 杨天琪 郑小佳 WANG Yanyan;REN Jiazhi;WANG Xuzhen;YANG Tianqi;ZHENG Xiaojia(Zhongyuan University of Technology,Zhengzhou,450007,China;Advanced Textile Equipment Technology Provincial and Ministerial Collaborative Innovation Center,Zhengzhou,450007,China;Jinjiang Research Institute of Haixi Textile New Materials Industrial Technology,Quanzhou,362200,China)

机构地区：[1]中原工学院,河南郑州450007 [2]先进纺织装备技术省部共建协同创新中心,河南郑州450007 [3]海西纺织新材料工业技术晋江研究院,福建泉州362200

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2024年第5期74-78,共5页Cotton Textile Technology

基　　金：泉州市科技计划资助(2021C001R)。

摘　　要：为了探讨不同精梳加工路线对涤棉混纺面料风格的影响,将涤纶与棉纤维分别精梳后按照65/35进行混纺制成涤棉混纺精梳纱,同时将普梳涤纶与精梳后的棉纤维进行混纺制成涤棉混纺半精梳纱。将涤棉混纺精梳纱和涤棉混纺半精梳纱利用相同的织造及染整工艺分别制成涤棉混纺精梳面料和涤棉混纺半精梳面料,利用KES织物风格仪测试两种面料的拉伸、剪切、弯曲、压缩、表面等风格特征。结果表明:与涤棉混纺半精梳面料相比,涤棉混纺精梳面料的各风格特征均有改善,其中变化最显著指标:抗弯刚度减小20%,弯曲滞后距减小17%,压缩比功减小22%,摩擦因数波动减小18%。认为:涤棉混纺精梳面料比涤棉混纺半精梳面料具有更好的柔软性、光滑性、回弹性。In order to discuss the effect of different combing processing routes on polyester cotton blended fabric style,polyester and cotton were separately combed then blended to spin polyester cotton blended combed yarn according to blending ratio of 65/35.Additionally,polyester were carded,cotton were combed and blended to spin semi-combed polyester cotton blended yarn.Both the polyester cotton blended combed yarn and polyester cotton blended semi-combed yarn were processed into polyester cotton blended combed fabric and polyester cotton blended semi-combed fabric using the same weaving and dyeing processes.The two types of fabric were tested for various style parameters,including tensile,shear,bending,compression and surface characteristics using KES fabric style analyzer.The results showed that compared with polyester cotton blended semi-combed fabric,the polyester cotton combed blended fabric exhibited improvements in various style aspects.The bending rigidity was reduced 20%,bending hysteresis distance was reduced 17%,compression work ratio was reduced 22%and fluctuation of friction coefficient was reduced 18%.It is considered that the polyester cotton blended combed fabric has better qualities in terms of softness,smoothness and resilience compared to the polyester cotton blended semi-combed fabric.

关 键 词：精梳 涤棉混纺 面料 织物风格 弯曲性能 压缩性能 

分 类 号：TS111.9[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]