社会史视野下的18世纪俄国贵族女性服饰变迁研究  

Costume of Russian Aristocratic Women in the 18th Century under the Perspective of Social History

作　　者：陈昭桦 Chen Zhaohua

机构地区：[1]南开大学世界近现代史研究中心

出　　处：《世界近现代史研究》2023年第1期264-283,367,368,共22页Studies of Modern World History

摘　　要：彼得一世改革使俄国贵族女性终于走出闺房。为适应生活状态的新变化,贵族女性服饰从原来宽衣长袍的民族款式转变为短袖狭身的欧洲风格。伊丽莎白女皇执政以后,在追求享受、沉迷奢华的俄国上层社会中,贵族女性越来越脱离现实而追求艺术的梦幻,奉法国文化为圭臬,她们的服饰变成奢华浮夸的洛可可风格。叶卡捷琳娜二世统治时期,俄国贵族女性通过入校学习、家庭教育等各种方式提高了文化素养,趋简、融入民族元素成为俄国贵族女性服饰的最新动态。服饰变迁映照出18世纪俄国贵族女性从走向社会但又从属于男性的次等地位,到需要通过男性的关注获得自身价值,再到逐渐能够独立主持社交活动,自我意识和民族意识不断增强的内在变化。The reform of Peter I made the Russian aristocratic women finally step out of their boudoir.To match up with their new life,their clothing inevitably changed from the national style of the original wide,loose robe to the European style with short sleeves and compactly tailored design.After Queen Elizabeth came to power,aristocratic women,who belonged to the Russian upper-class society that pursued enjoyment and indulged in luxury,became more and more divorced from reality and were fascinated by unrealistic fantasy.Following the standard of French culture their costumes took on extravagant and ostentatious Rococo style.During the reign of Ekaterina II,Russian aristocratic women had a higher culture literacy through education at school or at home.Simplicity and combination of national elements became fresh highlights in the clothing of Russian aristocratic women.The changes in costumes during 18th-century reflected changing social status of Russian aristocratic women,from stepping into society while still subordinated to men,to realizing personal value by attracting attention of men,,and then gradually,they were able to independently preside over social activities.Their self-awareness and national awareness have been strengthened dramatically.

关 键 词：俄国 服饰 贵族 女性 社会地位 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K512.34[历史地理—历史学]