近代纱罗织物的结构特征与艺术探究  

The Study on the weave characteristics and artistic style of Recent leno Fabrics

作　　者：杭航 王亚蓉[2] Hang Hang;Wang Yarong(Academy of Fine Arts,Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100020,China;The Institute of Archaeology Cass,Beijing 100020,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院美术学院,北京100020 [2]中国社会科学院考古研究所,北京100020

出　　处：《艺术与设计（理论版）》2024年第3期98-101,共4页Art and Design

摘　　要：纱罗是我国古代丝绸的代表性品种之一,经过5500年的历史演变发展至近代,中西文化的碰撞使得纱罗出现了多样化的趋势,涌现出很多新品种和新花色。纱罗的品种设计由显现在其表面的纹饰与色彩的设计观念,以及内在的经纬交织结构的工艺技术两部分组成。文章以博物馆馆藏以及民间收藏的近代纱罗实物为研究对象,对其组织结构、工艺进行系统梳理,以探究近代纱罗的结构特点、艺术风格及影响因素。研究发现:中国近代纱罗的组织结构和艺术风格既有古代优秀传统风格的继承,也有中西文化兼收并蓄后的推陈出新,具有鲜明的时代特征和艺术风格。Leno silk is one of the representative varieties of ancient silk in China.After 5500 years of historical evolution and development to modern times,the collision of Chinese and Western cultures has led to a trend of diversification in leno silk,with many new varieties and colors emerging.The variety design of leno silk consists of two parts:the design concept of patterns and colors that appear on its surface,and the craftsmanship technology of the internal warp and weft interweaving structure.This article focuses on modern leno silk objects collected in museums and folk collections,systematically sorting out their organizational structure and craftsmanship to explore the structural characteristics,artistic style,and influencing factors of modern gauze.Research has found that the organizational structure and artistic style of modern Chinese leno silk not only inherit the excellent traditional style of ancient times,but also innovate through the integration of Chinese and Western cultures,with distinct characteristics of the times andartistic styles.

关 键 词：纱罗 近代 品种 结构 艺术特征 

分 类 号：TS105.11[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]