涤纶混纺面料抽褶裙褶皱造型评价与分析  

Evaluation and Analysis of Pleats in Pleated Skirt with Polyester Blended Fabric

作　　者：曾靖涵 池泽俊 孙银银 吴建兵 Zeng Jinghan;Chi Zejun;Sun Yinyin;Wu Jianbing(School of Textile Garment and Design,Changshu Institute of Technology,Changshu,Jiangsu 215500,China)

机构地区：[1]常熟理工学院纺织服装与设计学院,江苏常熟215500

出　　处：《天津纺织科技》2024年第2期22-26,共5页Tianjin Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：江苏省高校自然科学基金项目(17KJB540001,19KJB430006)。

摘　　要：针对抽褶裙的抽褶造型效果问题,文章以半身裙为研究对象,选取7种涤纶混纺织物进行保形性能、力学性能测试和主观评价试验,筛选出3种较适宜抽褶的面料,分别为涤麻混纺(70:30)、涤棉混纺(50:50)、竹黏纤维与涤纶混纺(50:50)面料,并分别制作3组相同尺寸的样裙,每组包含5cm和10cm抽褶长度,对3组抽褶裙进行Kendall'sW检验主观评价试验。研究得出:竹黏纤维与涤纶混纺(50:50)面料(抽褶长度10cm)美观度评价最好;织物密度、线密度、厚度与织物折皱回复性、力学性能呈正相关,若织物折皱回复性、抗拉伸性越好,则织物呈刚性,折皱效果立体生硬,可改变混纺成分提升抽褶裙造型美观度。Aiming at the problem of pleating modeling effect of pleating skirt,the experiment took half skirt as the research object,selected 7 kinds of polyester blended fabric for conformal property test,mechanical property test and subjective evaluation experiment,and screened out 3 kinds of fabrics that were more suitable for pleating,namely polyester/linen(70:30),polyester/cotton(50:50)and bambo0 pulp fiber/polyester(50:50)blended fabric.Three groups of sample skirts of the same size were made with three kinds of fabrics,each group containing 5 cm and 10 cm pleat lengths.Kendall's W test was conducted for the subjective evaluation experiment and data analysis of the three groups of pleat skirts.The results show that the bamboo pulp fiber/polyester(50:50)blended fibric(10 cm length)has the best aesthetic evaluation.The density,linear density and thickness of fabric are positively correlated with the crease recovery and mechanical properties of fabric.If the crease recovery of the fabric and the tensile resistance is better,the fabric is rigid and the crease effect is three-dimensional and stiff.The appearance and appearance of the pleated skirt can be improved by changing the blend components.

关 键 词：抽褶造型 涤纶面料 混纺织物 外观造型 主观评价 

分 类 号：TS193.7[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]