高昌回鹘女子花蕾冠考释  

An interpretation of women“bud crown”in Gaochang Uighur

作　　者：吕钊[1] 黄霞 LYU Zhao;HUANG Xia(School of Apparel and Art Design,Xi’an Polytechnic University,Xi’an 710048,China)

机构地区：[1]西安工程大学服装与艺术设计学院,陕西西安710048

出　　处：《纺织高校基础科学学报》2024年第2期103-110,共8页Basic Sciences Journal of Textile Universities

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学项目(19EG211)。

摘　　要：高昌回鹘壁画中有一例特殊冠饰“花蕾冠”,蕴含着独特的服饰文化。运用图像学、历史学等方法,对花蕾冠的造型特征、演变过程、佩戴者身份等级展开探讨。研究表明花蕾冠的造型是以佛教莲花为主要参考物;随着佛教的兴盛,莲花的花瓣与花苞形态也开始演变,花蕾冠由早期出现的“双支菱形”样式逐渐演变为“单只或双支花苞”样式;佩戴人群身份为官员的家人,并非皇室阶层。花蕾冠不仅完善了莲花冠饰体系,也使民族宗教、社会礼俗具象化。There is a special“bud crown”in the murals of Gaochang Uighur,which contains a unique costume culture.The methods of iconography and history were adopted in this paper to discuss the shape feature,evolution process of the crown and the class of wearer.The results show that the Buddhist lotus is the main reference for bud crown modeling;with the prosperity of Buddhism,the petals and buds of lotus begin to evolve,with the bud crown evolving from the early“double diamond”style to“single or double bud”styles gradually;and the family member of officials wear it,not the royal class.The crown not only improves the lotus crown system,but also makes the national religion and social customs more concrete.

关 键 词：高昌回鹘 花蕾冠 莲花 佛教 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]