一种包含槐糖脂温和清洁组合物的性能研究  

Study on the properties of a mild surfactant composition containing sophorolipids

作　　者：王荣杰 王莎莎 WANG Rong-jie;WANG Sha-sha(Hangzhou Island Xingqing Biotechnology Co.,Ltd.,Hangzhou,Zhejiang 311121,China)

机构地区：[1]杭州岛屿星晴生物技术有限公司,杭州浙江311121

出　　处：《日用化学品科学》2024年第5期41-47,共7页Detergent & Cosmetics

摘　　要：通过玉米醇溶蛋白实验、血红细胞溶血实验、鸡胚绒毛尿囊膜试验、3D皮肤模型以及防晒清洁实验,从温和性和清洁力2个维度筛选出了合适的表活组合物,即当椰油酰谷氨酸钠和椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱复配,复配比例在3∶1~1∶3(w/w)时,组合物的温和性和清洁力都较为理想;在此基础上,添加槐糖脂可进一步提高表活组合物的温和性。其中,槐糖脂被证实具有改善皮肤屏障功能的作用。最后,通过振动杯法提取溶出因子研究表活组合物对角质层的刺激,结果表明组合物对皮肤中天然保湿因子和脂质的溶出更少,较辛基/癸基葡糖苷,组合物对皮肤的影响更小,更加适合婴童皮肤。Compared to adult skin,the skin of infants and children is thinner,less sebum,and more sensitive to external stimuli,therefore requiring more gentle cleansing products.This study screened suitable surface active compositions through Zein test,red blood cell test,Hen’s egg test-chorioallantoic membrane,3D skin model,and sunscreen cleaning test.When the ratio of sodium cocoylglutamate/cocoamide propyl betaine(w/w)is between 3∶1 and 1∶3,the mildness and cleaning power of the composition are relatively ideal,and the addition of sophorolipids can further improve the gentleness of the surface active composition.A HaCaT cell damage model was established through UVB induction to explore the role of sophorolipids.The results show that sophorolipids have the effect of improving skin barrier function,which is beneficial for skin moisturizing and repairing.Finally,the extraction of dissolution factors by the vibration cup method was used to study the stimulation of the surface active composition on the stratum corneum.The results show that the composition has less dissolution of natural moisturizing factors and lipids in the skin,and has less impact on the skin compared to octyl/decyl glucosides,making it more suitable for infant and child skin.

关 键 词：表面活性剂 槐糖脂 温和性 儿童 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]