蚕丝织物的巴西莓生态染色及功能性  

Ecological dyeing of silk fabric with brazilberry and its functionalities

作　　者：李明 刘建伟[1,2] 唐立 颜军锋[1] 尚维欣 李欢 LI Ming;LIU Jianwei;TANG Li;YAN Junfeng;SHANG Weixin;LI Huan(Hebei Ningfang Group Co.,Ltd.,Xingtai 055550,China;Hebei Green Textile Technology Innovation Center,Xingtai 055550,China)

机构地区：[1]河北宁纺集团有限责任公司,河北邢台055550 [2]河北省绿色纺织技术创新中心,河北邢台055550

出　　处：《印染》2024年第5期21-25,共5页China Dyeing and Finishing

基　　金：邢台市重点研发计划项目(2022ZZ002)。

摘　　要：为提高蚕丝织物的附加值和多功能性,以天然绿色抗氧化能力强的巴西莓进行生态染色。研究了壳聚糖、阳离子瓜尔胶、木瓜蛋白酶改性对织物K/S值的影响,通过单因素法确定了直接染色的最优工艺,考察了媒染剂氯化铈、单宁酸以及桃胶对织物色牢度的影响,测试了染色织物的色牢度、抗紫外性能以及吸湿导热性能。结果表明:木瓜蛋白酶改性蚕丝织物能够提高巴西莓的上染能力;直接染色最优工艺为pH=4,温度50℃,时间50 min,浴比1∶40;氯化铈同浴媒染时织物K/S值最大,但匀染性较差;染色后蚕丝织物耐摩擦和耐水洗色牢度均能达到3级,紫外防护性能以及吸湿导热性能得到增强。To improve the added value and multifunction of silk fabrics,the ecological dyeing of silk fabrics using natural green and strong antioxidant brazilberry is carried out.The effects of chitosan,cationic guar gum and pa⁃pain modification on the K/S value of the fabric are studied.The optimal direct dyeing process is determined by single factor method.The effects of mordants of cerium chloride,tannic acid and peach gum on the color fast⁃ness of the fabric are investigated.The color fastness,UV protection,moisture absorption and thermal conduc⁃tivity of dyed fabric are tested.The results show the papain modification can improve the dyeing ability of silk fabric.The optimal process of direct dyeing is pH 4,temperature 50℃,time 50 min,bath ratio 1∶40.The K/S val⁃ue of the fabric is the highest but the leveling property is the lowest with cerium chloride as mordant.The color fastnesses to rubbing and washing of dyed silk fabric can reach Grade 3,and the UV protection,moisture ab⁃sorption and thermal conductivity are enhanced.

关 键 词：媒染 巴西莓 色牢度 抗紫外 吸湿 蚕丝织物 

分 类 号：TS193.62[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]