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作 者:龚建培[1] 严宜舒 GONG Jianpei;YAN Yishu(School of Design,Nanjing University of the Arts,Nanjing 210013,China)
出 处:《丝绸》2024年第6期23-30,共8页Journal of Silk
基 金:国家社会科学基金艺术学项目(21BG128)。
摘 要:外销绸缎样本是丝绸设计文化、丝绸贸易的主要传播载体之一,也是研究现代丝绸设计史的重要档案文献。文章以中国丝绸公司1957—1985年编纂发行的系列外销绸缎样本为例,运用现代版本学、档案学、文献学等研究方法,从“版本学”的角度对其编撰主体、版本形制、各时期的编撰特征等进行考证和阐述,解决了现代绸缎设计史研究中,面对众多无时间标注单页绸缎样本难以判断具体年代的困惑与问题,为甄别不同时期、不同主体编撰的单页绸缎样本提供了翔实、准确的文献考证和图文参照。From the founding of the People’s Republic of China to the early days of reform and opening-up,China printed and issued a great number of silk sample books for export by different compilation subjects,different versions of form,and different sales markets.However,of these silk sample books collected from the collecting institutions and individual collectors,many scattered single-volume or single-page sample books lack the annotation of relevant compilation and issuance time.This issue has brought difficulty and confusion to the collection and researchers on the examination and utilization,and even misunderstanding on the citation and research.It also leads to the the fact that it is difficult to properly reflect the collection value,historical value,cultural value,and social value of this part of sample books.Taking the series of exported silk sample books compiled and issued by China Silk Company and other companies in the previous years as the main object,this paper clarified the compilation and form characteristics of the editions in different years from the physical form of the editions.Moreover,from the cultural form of the editions,the paper explored the relationship between socio-economics,foreign trade strategy,science and culture and the changes of the editions,as well as their value and contribution to the development of China’s modern silk design and silk foreign trade.The research results provide meaningful references for the collection and identification of exported silk sample books of modern days,the study of the history of Chinese silk design,and the innovative design of modern silk.The paper clearly defined some conceptual problems of editions in the study of exported silk sample books by drawing on the relevant research methods of edition studies,archival science,bibliography,etc.The paper also carried out in-depth research,collection and sorting of the silk sample books between 1957 and 1985,and examined and elaborated the compilation subjects,the form of editions,and the compilation charac
关 键 词:外销绸缎样本 版本形制 编撰主体 编撰特征 价值特征 考略
分 类 号:TS941.28[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] G276[文化科学—档案学]
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