设计政策引领下的英国时尚产业转型与发展  

The transformation and development of British fashion industry under the guidance of design policies

作　　者：刘丽娴 李樾 卢益婧 LIU Lixian;LI Yue;LU Yijing(Silk and Fashion Culture Research Center of Zhejiang Province,Hangzhou 310018,China;School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 311199,China;School of International Institute of Fashion Technology,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 311199,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江省丝绸与时尚文化研究中心,杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学服装学院,杭州311199 [3]浙江理工大学国际时装技术学院,杭州311199

出　　处：《丝绸》2024年第6期79-86,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：浙江省哲学社会科学领军人才培育专项子课题项目(22YJRC03ZD-1YB)。

摘　　要：回望历史,设计政策的萌芽可追溯至1851年“水晶宫博览会”的筹办,虽然整体看来在19世纪末以来英国时尚以追随巴黎为主,但是英国政府在其时尚产业历经多次危机期间积极作为,主要为“二战”后维护传统至寻求创新创意的转变;历史积淀加之关注创意文化引发英国时尚转型步入创意发展阶段,并将时尚纳入“创意文化产业”范畴;全球“疫情”加速英国设计与时尚品牌呈现数字化转型趋势,并催生可持续发展背景下的新型时尚产业生态链路。文章通过比对设计政策及其引领下的英国时尚产业发展历史阶段,以期通过历史样本的再确认探讨其所映射的中国价值。Globally,design management and its related concepts have attracted much attention from experts and scholars in design,sociology,economics and other related industries,and the design policy research involved in design management is gradually becoming one of the core elements for countries to promote the development of the fashion industry,condense the characteristics of the regional fashion culture and build fashion centers.Looking back at history,economic development,capital accumulation and national development are all closely linked to the prosperity of the textile industry.The prosperity of the textile industry has undoubtedly provided a solid foundation for the rise of the fashion industry.Although there are differences in the development paths and methods of the fashion industry in various countries,the active intervention and guidance of the fashion industry at the national level is a common theme,which is manifested in design management and policies.Britain,for instance,has introduced a series of policies driven by official design organizations,which include strategic planning at the national level as well as policy measures proposed by industry associations,all of which have helped the fashion industry to become an important pillar of its economic development.As modern industry attaches great importance to design innovation and economic development,governments are gradually realizing the industrial benefits and economic value brought by design,and are committed to promoting research on the formulation and implementation of design industry policies.However,the formulation and improvement of design policy do not happen overnight,but through years or even decades of gradual evolution and optimization,which is is particularly obvious specially in fashion design,a unique economic and interdisciplinary field.In this paper,through combing the development of design policy and fashion industry in Britain,interpreting typical cases from a historical perspective,analyzing the logic between design policies and the fa

关 键 词：设计管理 设计政策 英国时尚 时尚产业 时尚产业转型 创意文化产业 

分 类 号：TS941.1[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] F416.81[经济管理—产业经济]