捻系数比对针织用棉汉麻混纺股线性能的影响  

Effect of twist factor ratio on performance of knitted cotton hemp blended ply yarn

作　　者：田苏杰 吉宜军 高鹂 崔益怀 苏旭中[1] TIAN Sujie;JI Yijun;GAO Li;CUI Yihuai;SU Xuzhong(Key Laboratory of Eco-textiles,Ministry of Education,Wuxi,214122,China;Nantong Shuanghong Textile Co.,Ltd.,Nantong,226601,China;Biwei Shenmei Commodity Testing(Shanghai)Co.,Ltd.,Shanghai,201108,China)

机构地区：[1]生态纺织教育部重点试验室,江苏无锡214122 [2]南通双弘纺织有限公司,江苏南通226661 [3]必维申美商品检测(上海)有限公司,上海201108

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2024年第6期75-79,共5页Cotton Textile Technology

基　　金：江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心协同创新基金项目(XJFZ/2021/17)。

摘　　要：为探究棉汉麻混纺纱合股时捻系数比对股线性能的影响,将棉/汉麻65/3518.4 tex集聚纱以不同的捻系数比反向加捻为股线,对股线的强力、毛羽、条干、耐磨性能等进行测试,并对试验测试结果进行模糊综合评价。试验结果表明:当捻系数比在0.52~0.95时,随着捻系数比的增大,股线的断裂强力和断裂伸长率先减小后增大,3 mm毛羽数先增大后减小,耐磨性能逐渐提高;当捻系数比超过0.95后,3 mm毛羽数又开始增长,断裂伸长率逐渐减小。当捻系数比为0.95时,棉汉麻混纺股线的综合性能表现最好,考虑针织物织造需求和风格要求,可选择捻系数比在0.90~0.95的棉汉麻混纺股线。To investigate the effect of the twist factor ratio on the performance of cotton hemp blended ply yarn,cotton/hemp 65/35 blended yarn was twisted as ply in reverse with different twist factor ratios.The strength,hairiness,evenness,and wear resistance of the ply yarn were tested.The test results were conducted fuzzy comprehensive elaluation.The experimental results showed that within the range of 0.52 to 0.95 twist factor ratio,as the twist factor ratio increased,the breaking strength and breaking elongation rate of the ply yarn first was decreased and then increased,3 mm hairiness number first was increased and then decreased,and the wear resistance gradually was improved.When the twist factor ratio was exceeded 0.95,3 mm hairiness number begin to increased,and the breaking elongation rate gradually was decreased.When the twist factor ratio was 0.95,the comprehensive performance of the cotton hemp blended ply yarn was the best.Considering the weaving requirements and style requirements,twist factor ratio of cotton hemp blended ply yarn should be selected in the range of 0.90~0.95.

关 键 词：捻系数比 股线 棉汉麻混纺纱 强伸性能 反向加捻 模糊综合评价 

分 类 号：TS104.2[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]