植物提取物组方基于3D皮肤模型的功效研究  

Research on the efficacy of plant extract formulation based on 3D skin models

作　　者：刘敏 蒋玲玲 孙翠 叶磊 郑久炎 LIU Min;JIANG Ling-ing;SUN Cui;YE Lei;ZHENG Jiu-yan(Suzhou Misifu Cosmetics Co.,Ltd.,Suzhou,Jiangsu 215200,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州蜜思肤化妆品股份有限公司,江苏苏州215200

出　　处：《日用化学品科学》2024年第6期64-69,共6页Detergent & Cosmetics

摘　　要：通过对7种植物提取物进行粉碎、萃取、脱色、脱盐、浓缩等处理后,再加入戊二醇、1,2-己二醇、甘油、海藻糖,按一定比例制备成植物提取物组方(简称“组方”);基于角质形成细胞对该组方开展细胞毒理性研究,确定组方安全给药浓度;基于中国人角质形成细胞构建了3D表皮皮肤模型(简称“3D皮肤模型”),研究了组方对其角质层含水量的影响;分别以十二烷基硫酸钠(SLS)刺激3D皮肤模型研究组方对炎性介质(PGE2)和促炎因子(IL-1α)含量变化的影响,以辣椒素(CAP)刺激3D皮肤模型研究组方对辣椒素受体(TRPV1)蛋白含量变化的影响,并通过透明质酸酶抑制实验研究组方的舒缓效果。实验结果显示,在一定浓度下,该组方对IL-1α、PGE2、TRPV1和透明质酸酶均具有很好的抑制效果,可以显著提升角质层含水量,表明该组方具有保湿、舒缓和修护功效,可应用于对应功效宣称化妆品中。The seven plant extracts were crushed,extracted,decolorized,desalted,concentrated,and then added with pentanediol,1,2-hexanediol,glycerol,and trehalose to prepare the plant extract formulation(hereinafter referred to as the“formulation”)in a certain proportion.Cytotoxic studies of the prepared formulation were carried out based on keratinocytes to determine the safe dosing concentration of the formulation.A 3D epidermal skin model(hereinafter referred to as 3D skin model)was constructed based on Chinese keratinocytes to study the effect of formulation on the change of water content in the stratum corneum.The 3D injured skin model was constructed with sodium lauryl sulfate(SLS)stimulation to study the effect of the formulation on pro-inflammatory factors(IL-1α)and inflammatory mediators(PGE2)content changes.The 3D injured skin model was constructed by capsaicin(CAP)stimulation to study the effect of formulation on the content of capsaicin receptor protein(TRPV1).And the soothing effect of the formulation was studied by hyaluronidase inhibition experiment.The experimental results indicated that the formulation,at certain concentrations,exhibited significant inhibitory effects on IL-1α,PGE2,TRPV1 and hyaluronidase,and can also significantly increase the water content of the stratum corneum.These findings suggest that the formulation possesses moisturizing,soothing and reparing effects,making it suitable to use in cosmetics with the corresponding claims.

关 键 词：植物提取物 舒缓 抗敏 保湿 修护 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]