结构与工艺要素对PET有光丝织物对比光泽度的影响  

Influence of structure and process elements on the glossiness of PET glossy fabrics

作　　者：谭玉婷 夏灵锋 李杰[1] 眭建华[1,2] TAN Yuting;XIA Lingfeng;LI Jie;SUI Jianhua(College of Textile and Clothing Engineering,Soochow University,Suzhou,Jiangsu,China;Key Laboratory of Natural Dyes,China National Textile and Apparel Council,Suzhou,Jiangsu,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州大学纺织与服装工程学院,江苏苏州 [2]纺织行业天然染料重点实验室,江苏苏州

出　　处：《东华大学学报（自然科学版）》2024年第3期92-97,共6页Journal of Donghua University(Natural Science)

摘　　要：为研究织物结构设计要素和上机织造工艺要素对涤纶(PET)有光丝织物光泽度的影响,选用83.3 dtex/36f PET圆形截面大有光全拉伸丝(FDY)作为基材,经线作为双股复捻线,采用变化组织表征值、纬线密度、纬线捻向搭配、穿综数量与位置,以及每筘穿入数制得试样,测取织物的对比光泽度(G_(C))。结果表明:组织浮长线长、组织点分布规则时,织物的G_(C)值较大;在一定上限范围内织物的G_(C)值随纬线密度的增大而增大;不同捻向复捻股线在经、纬方向上的搭配对织物的G_(C)值影响不明显;采用不同综框数或不同穿综位置制备的织物,其G_(C)值差异不明显;采用小筘号多穿入与大筘号少穿入方式制备相同的织物,其G_(C)值差异也不明显。In order to study the influence of fabric structure design elements and weaving process elements on the glossiness of polyethylene terephthalate(PET)large glossy fabric,83.3 dtex/36f PET circular cross-section large glossy fully drawn yarn(FDY)was selected as the base material,double-ply twisted yarn was selected as warp yarn.The fabric specimens were prepared by derivative weaves value,weft density,weft twist alignment,amount and position of drafting,quantity of ends etc.to measure the comparative glossiness(G_(C))of the fabric.The results show that the G_(C)value of the fabric is relatively large,when the floating length of the fabric weave is long and the interlacing points are regularly distributed.Within a certain upper limit,the G_(C)value of the fabric increases with the increase of the weft density.The collocation of plied yarns with different twist directions in warp and weft direction has no obvious effect on the G_(C)value of the fabric.The G_(C)value of the same fabric prepared with different amount of heddles or different positions of heddles is not obvious.The G_(C)value of the fabric was not significantly affected by the same fabric prepared by using small reed counts with more ends or large reed counts with less ends.

关 键 词：织物光泽度 织物组织 纬线密度 复捻股线 穿综 穿筘 

分 类 号：TS155[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]