石榴皮植物染料及其染色羊绒纤维的鉴别  

Identification of the natural dye extracted from pomegranate peel and its dyed cashmere fibers

作　　者：桂祖文 何剑锋 徐昊宁 陈胜航 余志成[1,2] 侯战昌 陈超 GUI Zuwen;HE Jianfeng;XU Haoning;CHEN Shenghang;YU Zhicheng;HOU Zhanchang;CHEN Chao(College of Textile Science and Engineering(International Institute of Silk),Ministry of Education,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Engineering Research Center for Eco-Dyeing&Finishing of Textiles,Ministry of Education,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;China Textile Planning Institute of Construction,Beijing 100020,China;Ningbo Consinee New Fibre Technology Co.,Ltd.,Ningbo 315200,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院(国际丝绸学院),杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学生态染整技术教育部工程研究中心,杭州310018 [3]中国纺织建设规划院,北京100020 [4]宁波康赛妮新纤维科技有限公司,宁波315200

出　　处：《现代纺织技术》2024年第6期18-27,共10页Advanced Textile Technology

基　　金：宁波市科技创新2025重大专项(2022Z100)。

摘　　要：为完善植物染标准体系,建立石榴皮植物染料的鉴别方法与标准,通过紫外分光光度计对石榴皮植物染料的标志物进行分析,并采用液质联用仪对石榴皮植物染料及其染色羊绒纤维上萃取的染料进行鉴别。结果表明:安石榴苷与鞣花酸可以作为鉴别石榴皮植物染料及其染色羊绒纤维的标志物。石榴皮植物染料的质谱中检测到准分子离子峰m/z 300.9862,保留时间为1.02 min;直接染色和硫酸亚铁后媒染羊绒纤维萃取液的质谱中检测到准分子离子峰m/z 300.9896和300.9868,保留时间分别为1.02 min和1.04 min。两者均与鞣花酸标准品1.02 min的出峰时间相近,在标准允许的±2.5%偏差范围内,结合其紫外可见光吸收光谱中只含有277 nm处的没食子酸与255、357 nm处的鞣花酸特征峰,可确定该染料及其染色羊绒纤维均为纯石榴皮植物染料。In recent years,the international community has paid close attention to global environmental issues,and the concept of sustainable development has gradually become the theme of social development.With the popularization of the concept of ecology,health and environmental protection,increasing attention has been paid to the application of natural dyes in textiles.At present,plant dyes are one of the most important sources of natural dyes.A variety of plant dyes have been applied in textiles.Pomegranate peel,as a renewable resource,is one of the common plant dyes and has been widely used in the field of ecological textile dyeing.However,there is no corresponding identification method and standard for the natural dye extracted from pomegranate peel on the market.To make up the lack of plant dyeing standard system,it is necessary to establish the identification method and standard for the natural dye extracted from pomegranate peel.To fill the gap of plant dyeing standard system and establish a identification method and standard for the natural dye extracted from pomegranate peel,this paper studied the identification of the natural dye extracted from pomegranate peel and its dyed cashmere fibers.Firstly,the natural dye extracted from pomegranate peel was tested by ultraviolet spectrophotometer to determine the markers for identifying the natural dye extracted from pomegranate peel.Then,the standard substance,the natural dye extracted from pomegranate peel and its dyed cashmere fiber extract were detected by ultraviolet spectrophotometer and liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry in negative ion mode.By comparing the retention time and mass spectrum of the dyes,the dyed cashmere fiber extract and the standard substance,and combining with the characteristic peaks contained in the ultraviolet-visible absorption spectrum,a perfect identification standard system was established to identify whether the dye and cashmere fiber were pure natural dye extracted from pomegranate peel and its dyed cashmere fiber.The experimental

关 键 词：石榴皮 植物染料 羊绒纤维 安石榴苷 鞣花酸 染料鉴别 植物染标准体系 

分 类 号：TS193.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]