赭红色暗花缎缀绣鸾凤圆补女袍考  

On Woman's Reddish-Brown Satin Robe with Subtle Patterns and Round Patches Embroidered with Phoenix Design

作　　者：徐冉 Xu Ran

机构地区：[1]孔子博物馆

出　　处：《故宫博物院院刊》2024年第5期91-101,142,143,共13页Palace Museum Journal

摘　　要：山东博物馆收藏有一件“赭红色暗花缎缀绣鸾凤圆补女袍”,系孔府旧藏明代服饰,其袍服颜色、补子形制和纹饰等级都远远超越了明代衍圣公夫人所对应的一品外命妇服饰的级别。本文通过梳理明代衍圣公府姻亲关系,经过实物标本和文献资料二重考证研究,判断该女袍应为袭封六十一代衍圣公孔弘泰(1448-1503)的长女、第六代鲁王朱建杙王妃孔氏所穿的综合了礼服和常服结构的一件复合性常服。The Shandong Museum houses a'woman's reddish-brown satin robe with subtle patterns and round patches embroidered with phoenix design',a piece of clothing from the Ming Dynasty originally kept by the Confucius Mansion.The color,patch shapes,and decorative designs of the robe far exceed the level of attire corresponding to the wife of Duke Yansheng,designated as a first-rank noblewoman's clothing according to the standards of the Ming Dynasty.This thesis analyzes the marital relations within the Confucius Mansion of the Ming Dynasty,and through textual research of archives and objects,concludes that this robe was a combination of ceremonial and informal dress and was likely worn by the eldest daughter of the sixty-first generation Duke Yansheng,Kong Hongtai(1448-1503),who was also the wife of Zhu Jianyi,the sixth Prince of Lu.

关 键 词：孔府旧藏 服饰 鸾凤补 命妇 鲁王妃 

分 类 号：K875.2[历史地理—考古学及博物馆学] TS941.12[历史地理—历史学]