油橄榄叶提取物/光甘草定纳米乳的经皮渗透性能及美白功效评价  

Evaluation of Transdermal Penetration Properties and Whitening Efficacy of OLE/GLA Nanoemulsions

作　　者：张宝江 罗丹 王曦[2,3] 李泽巧 赵金枫[1] 刘卫 ZHANG Baojiang;LUO Dan;WANG Xi;LI Zeqiao;ZHAO Jinfeng;LIU Wei(SGCE Group Co.,Ltd.,Chengdu 610000,Sichuan,China;Wuhan Bestcarrier Biotechnology Co.,Ltd.,Wuhan 430075,Hubei,China;National Engineering Research Center for Nanomedicine,Huazhong University of Science and Technology,Wuhan 430075,Hubei,China;College of Life Science and Technology,Huazhong University of Science and Technology,Wuhan 430074,Hubei,China)

机构地区：[1]四川泽润嘉美化妆品有限公司,四川成都610000 [2]武汉百思凯瑞生物科技有限公司,湖北武汉430075 [3]华中科技大学国家纳米药物工程技术研究中心,湖北武汉430075 [4]华中科技大学生命科学与技术学院,湖北武汉430074

出　　处：《香料香精化妆品》2024年第3期28-34,共7页Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics

摘　　要：采用高压均质技术制备了共载油橄榄叶提取物和光甘草定的纳米乳(OLE/GLA-NEs),研究OLE/GLA-NEs的经皮渗透性能及美白功效。通过皮肤渗透试验,发现将光甘草定包装在纳米乳中,其皮肤吸收和储存量优于游离光甘草定。细胞美白试验结果表明,光甘草定质量浓度为20μg/mL时,OLE/GLA-NEs相较于Free OLE/GLA,酪氨酸酶活性抑制率达到78.51%,黑色素相对含量仅为16.48%,差异具有非常显著性意义(P<0.01)。3D黑色素皮肤模型研究结果表明,OLE/GLA-NEs相较于油橄榄叶提取物和光甘草定的游离活性物(Free OLE/GLA),L^(*)值提升率为6.11%,黑色素含量抑制率为12.90%,差异具有显著性意义(P<0.05)。人体临床试验结果表明,使用含有质量分数5%OLE/GLA-NEs的精华28 d后,志愿者皮肤的光泽度、ITA°值明显增高,皮肤黑色素含量及色斑总面积明显下降,色斑变淡,皮肤白皙有光泽。因此,OLE/GLA-NEs对皮肤有显著的美白功效,作为化妆品美白功效原料具有良好的应用前景。Nanoemulsion carriers containing OLE/GLA were prepared by high-pressure homogenization technique,and the transdermal penetration properties and whitening efficacy of OLE/GLA-NEs were investigated.Transdermal permeation studies showed that the nanoemulsions encapsulated OLE/GLA had good skin permeability and skin storage capacity compared with the free component.The results of the cell whitening assay showed that at a concentration of 20μg/mL of glabridin,the tyrosinase activity inhibition rate of OLE/GLA-NEs reached 78.51%,and the relative content of melanin was only 16.48% compared with free OLE/GLA,and the difference was highly significant(P<0.01).The results of the 3D melanin skin modeling study showed that OLE/GLANEs showed a 6.11% enhancement of L^(*)value and a 12.90% inhibition of melanin content compared with free OLE/GLA,and the difference was significant(P<0.05).The results of clinical trials showed that after 28 days of using the serum containing 5%(in mass fraction)OLE/GLA-NEs,the melanin content and total area of pigmentation of the skin increased significantly,the L^(*)value and ITA°of the skin increased significantly,the pigmentation became lighter,and the skin became fair and radiant.It is shown that the OLE/GLA-NEs have good whitening effect on the skin and have a good application prospect in the whitening cosmetic market.

关 键 词：油橄榄叶提取物 光甘草定 纳米乳 经皮渗透 美白功效 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]