化妆品防腐剂苯氧乙醇和对羟基苯甲酸丙酯的皮肤安全性和暴露量  

Skin Safety and Exposure of Phenoxyethanol and Propyl Paraben Preservatives in Cosmetics

作　　者：李和伟 魏国志 代颖 LI Hewei;WEI Guozhi;DAI Ying(Changzhou Weibo Hi-Tech Co.,Ltd.,Changzhou 213000,Jiangsu,China)

机构地区：[1]常州伟博海泰化妆品有限公司,江苏常州213000

出　　处：《香料香精化妆品》2024年第3期212-217,共6页Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics

摘　　要：应用多种试验方法评估苯氧乙醇和对羟基苯甲酸丙酯的皮肤安全性和在皮肤中暴露量。所用的试验方法包括鸡胚绒毛尿囊膜(CAM)、斑马鱼胚模型、细胞中基质金属蛋白酶2(MMP-2)抑制测定法和离体猪皮渗透试验。鸡胚试验显示二者在0.2%质量分数时不会对眼产生刺激性;斑马鱼胚模型表明,2个防腐剂质量分数在0.01%不会对斑马鱼胚摆尾产生显著影响;2个防腐剂质量分数分别为0.1%和0.01%不会对MMP-2产生显著抑制;离体猪皮渗透试验显示对羟基苯甲酸丙酯经皮累积透过量仅是苯氧乙醇累积透过量的5%,但其在皮肤角质层和真皮层中驻留量均较大,在20 min贴敷时约是苯氧乙醇驻留量的2.5和5.8倍。可为化妆品中防腐剂安全使用提供一种评估方法。The skin safety and cutaneous exposure levels of phenoxyethanol and propyl paraben were evaluated using various experimental methods,which included the chicken embryo chorioallantoic membrane(CAM)vascular assay,zebrafish embryo model,matrix metalloproteinase 2(MMP-2)inhibition assay in cells,and ex vivo permeation test in porcine skin.The results of CAM demonstrated that both substances did not cause eye irritation at the mass fraction of 0.2%.The zebrafish model indicated that the two preservatives at concentrations of 0.01% did not significantly affect tail movement of zebrafish.Two preservatives with mass fractions of 0.1% and 0.01% respectively didn’t significantly inhibit MMP-2.The ex vivo porcine skin permeation test showed that the cumulative permeation of propyl paraben was only 5% of that of phenoxyethanol.However,it resided significantly in the stratum corneum and dermis,with levels approximately 2.5 and 5.8 times higher than those of phenoxyethanol after 20 min of application.This study provides an evaluation method for the safe use of preservatives in cosmetics.

关 键 词：苯氧乙醇 对羟基苯甲酸丙酯 防腐剂安全评估 离体猪皮渗透试验 皮肤驻留量 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]