薄型织物缝纫平整度客观评价研究  

An Objective Evaluation Study on the Sewing Flatness of Thin Fabrics

作　　者：吴丹 柳庆平 王丽娟 WU Dan;LIU Qingping;WANG Lijuan(College of Textile Engineering and Art,Anhui Agricultural University,Hefei,Anhui 230036,China)

机构地区：[1]安徽农业大学轻纺工程与艺术学院,安徽合肥230036

出　　处：《浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报》2024年第2期27-31,共5页Journal of Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology

摘　　要：为探究薄型面料在缝制过程中产生缩皱的原因,选取几种夏季常用薄型面料作为研究对象,通过工业平缝实验测试,利用缩缝率、相关分析法及图像处理技术客观评价薄型面料的缝纫平整度。实验结果显示:经向织物的缩缝率较纬向的大,斜向的缝纫平整度较好;织物缝缩率与克重、厚度之间具有显著的相关性,且负相关,即面料的克重越大,面料的缝纫缩皱程度越小;织物厚度越大,织物越不易缝缩;较小的缝线张力可减小薄型面料缝纫缩皱;同样,塑料压脚可减少缝纫缩皱。In order to explore the causes of shrinkage of thin fabrics during the sewing process,several commonly used thin fabrics in summer were selected as research objects,and the sewing flatness of thin fabrics was objectively evaluated by using shrinkage rate,correlation analysis method and image processing technology through industrial flat seam experimental tests.The experimental results show that the seam shrinkage rate of warp fabric islarger than that in the weft direction,and the sewing flatness in the oblique direction is better.There is a significant correlation between fabric shrinkage rate,grammage and thickness,and it is a negative correlation.That is,the larger the grammage of the fabric,the less of sewing shrinkage of the fabric.The thicker of the fabric,the less likely the fabric is to shrink.Smaller suture tension reduces the sewing shrinkage of the thin fabric.Similarly,the plastic presser can reduce sewing shrinkage.

关 键 词：薄型面料 缝缩率 缝纫工艺 图像处理技术 

分 类 号：TS941.6[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]