服装褶皱形态的参数化表征方法  

Parametric characterization method of clothing fold morphology

作　　者：王一品 李小辉[1,2] WANG Yipin;LI Xiaohui(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室,上海200051

出　　处：《纺织学报》2024年第6期149-154,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(2232022G-08)。

摘　　要：在服装结构设计趋向智能化与自动化的背景下,褶皱形态的量化表征存在种类繁杂、影响因素多等问题。通过分析服装褶皱形成的影响因素,提出基于款式特征参数的褶皱形态量化表征方法,建立服装褶皱形态二维平面款式与三维结构间的映射关系。选取了比较典型的6种褶皱形态,制作了5款裙装,在满足同一面料、裙长、纱线方向及观察视角的条件下,进行14个款式特征参数量化估计值与测量值对照实验,得到22组实验数据。结果表明,本文方法能有效约束和描述不同褶皱类型,且量化估计值与测量值在95%的置信区间下具有显著相关性。该量化方法直观准确,灵活高效,具有普遍适用性和工程实用性,能有效地实现服装褶皱形态的量化表征。Objective In the context of intelligent and automated clothing structure design,there are many problems in the quantitative representation of fold morphology,such as a wide variety and a lot influencing factors.In order to solve this problem,this paper proposes a parametric characterization method for clothing fold morphologies,and establishes the mapping relationship between its two-dimensional plane style and three-dimensional structure,so as to realize the automatic generation of fold personalized patterns.Method The parametric theory was used and a series of parameter values were set.Relevant parameters were adopted to constrain and describe the structural dimensions of geometry.By combining the structural drawing principle of folds and the relationship between internal fold structures,14 characteristic parameters that can quantify the fold morphology were proposed.Five skirts of the same fabric were prepared as experimental samples,including a total of six common pleated styles.There were 22 sets of experiments designed from these 5 samples.In the experiment,physical photos of clothing folds were taken under the same angle of view and the same plane.Then the photos were subjected to image processing for feature parameter extraction.Results From the quantification results of the fold images of specimen A-E,it can be seen that each fold in the sample can be decomposed into multiple single folds of different sizes and orientations to characterize.These folds can be quantified with the extracted 14 characteristic parameters and 11 representative folds were extracted from five specimens.Estimates of the parameters in these folds were found.Then the data were compared with their actual measurements.SPSS were utilized to pair estimates and measurements for different types of folds.The results show that the folds,which quantified by this method,has a significant correlation between the estimated and measured values used for testing.At the same time,no significant difference exists between the estimated and measured

关 键 词：服装褶皱 褶皱形态 参数化表征 结构设计 智能制版 服装工程 

分 类 号：TS941.26[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]