《宫乐图》中仕女服饰的数字化复原  

Digital restoration of women's costumes depicted in ancient painting of"A Palace Concert"

作　　者：黄智威 石雅杰 陆冯 李青[1] 薛哲彬 HUANG Zhiwei;SHI Yajie;LU Feng;LI Qing;XUE Zhebin(College of Textile and Clothing Engineering,Soochow University,Suzhou,Jiangsu 215021,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州大学纺织与服装工程学院,江苏苏州215021

出　　处：《纺织学报》2024年第6期155-164,共10页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：教育部人文社科青年基金项目(22YJC760111);江苏省丝绸工程重点实验室开放课题(KJS2057)。

摘　　要：通过数字化手段对古代画作中的人物服饰进行重现可达到简化传统服饰复原流程、节约修复成本等目的。以《宫乐图》中端茶仕女为例探索古代服饰的数字化复原方法论。首先,借助数字化服装制图技术对原画受损部分进行修复,并基于文史资料及服装美学原理,对仕女服款式、结构等信息进行分析和推断;而后,通过数字化制板技术绘制服装样板,运用三维虚拟现实技术对服饰进行数字化还原展示;最后,结合层次分析法及模糊综合评价法构建三层级的评价体系对复原效果进行验证。结果表明,复原后的仕女服不论从服装造型、结构、面料及工艺的还原程度,还是服饰的整体复原效果,其好评占比均达到40%以上,说明本文提出的以古代画作为参考进行的古代服饰数字化复原方法可行,效果满意。Objective The traditional process of restoring ancient costumes relies on physical artifacts as a basis,which often leads to cumbersome and time-consuming restoration procedures due to factors such as the condition of cultural relics,restoration processes,and the experience of researchers.The restoration of ancient costumes necessitates broader exploration and the quest for a more scientific methodology to serve as guidance.Method Taking the tea-serving maiden in the ancient painting of"A Palace Concert"as the subject,a digital approach was adopted to restore the Tang Dynasty women's costumes depicted in the painting.This approach involved painting restoration using digital techniques,inferencing costume styles,sizes and other information through the use of literature and aesthetic principles,sample production using digital pattern-making tools,and virtual costume creation and display using three-dimensional virtual-reality technology.The evaluation system was constructed using the Analytic Hierarchy Process(AHP)and consists of four primary criteria and eleven secondary criteria.The weights of each criterion were calculated,and the restoration results were evaluated using the fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method.Result A comprehensive evaluation system and criteria for the restoration of women's costumes depicted in the Painting"A Palace Concert"were constructed,including four primary criteria,which were"Overall Styling","Costume Construction","Fabric Selection",and"Craftsmanship",as well as eleven secondary criteria to assess the effectiveness of costume restoration.Using the expert assessment method,weights were obtained for both the primary and secondary criteria.The primary criteria assigned 0.2433 weight to"Overall Styling",0.3789 to"Costume Construction",0.1623 to"Fabric Selection",and 0.1880 to"Craftsmanship",among which,"Costume Construction"had the highest weight.The secondary criteria assigned"Costume Bodice"and"Costume Style"with relatively high weights,with values of 0.59 and 0.4887,respectively.Thei

关 键 词：宫乐图 仕女服饰 数字化复原 虚拟展示 多层次模糊综合评价 

分 类 号：TS941[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]