改性蚕丝织物的胭脂虫红染色工艺探析  

Study on Dyeing Technology of Modified Real Silk Fabric Cochineal Red

作　　者：武松梅[1] 陈秀芳[1] WU Songmei;CHEN Xiufang(Department of Modern garment,Anhui Vocational and Technical College,Hefei Anhui 230011,China)

机构地区：[1]安徽职业技术学院现代服装学院,安徽合肥230011

出　　处：《武汉纺织大学学报》2024年第3期76-80,共5页Journal of Wuhan Textile University

基　　金：安徽省高校自然科学研究重点项目(2023AH051426);安徽省高校自然科学研究重点项目(2023AH051454);安徽省高等学校质量工程项目(2021jpkc089);安徽职业技术学院质量工程项目(2022yjjxyj21)、(2022yjjpkc12);安徽省高校科研重大项目(2022AH040274);安徽省2021年省级质量工程教学团队(2021jxtd155)。

摘　　要：为使胭脂虫红上染蚕丝织物效果好,采用壳聚糖季铵盐(HACC)对蚕丝织物改性后,用胭脂虫红色素直接染色,探讨改性工艺。研究表明,最佳改性工艺条件为改性温度70℃,改性时间40 min,pH=5,HACC质量浓度4%。胭脂虫红对改性蚕丝织物进行直接染色,得出优化的染色工艺条件为染色温度80℃,染色时间40min,pH=7,染液质量浓度6%。在最佳的工艺条件下,对未改性及改性蚕丝织物进行直接染色和后媒染,用环保的氯化镧稀土为媒染剂,对染色织物的染色性能、色牢度进行测试。结果表明,HACC改性试样经过后媒染法染色,其染色性能、色牢度最好,对生态染整技术发展提供积极的意义。In order to dye real silk fabric with cochineal red pigment,chitosan quaternary ammonium salt(HACC)was used to modify real silk fabric,and cochineal red pigment was directly dyed.The results show that HACC can effectively improve the dyeing property of real silk fabrics with cochineal red pigment.The optimum modification process are as follows:modification temperature of 70℃,modification time of 40 min,pH value 5,HACC concentration 4%.The optimized dyeing process of the silk fabric modified by cochineal red pigment are as follows:dyeing temperature of 80℃,dyeing time of 40 min,pH value 7 and mass fraction of dyeing solution 6%.Under the best technological conditions,the unmodified sample and the modified sample were dyed directly and post-dyed,and lanthanum chloride rare earth was used as the mordant.The dyeing properties,color fastness to dry/wet friction and ultraviolet resistance of the fabric were tested.The results showed that the modified sample had the best dyeing properties,color fastness after post-dyeing.It provides positive influence to the development of ecological dyeing and finishing technology.

关 键 词：胭脂虫红色素 真丝面料 壳聚糖季铵盐 改性工艺 染色工艺 

分 类 号：TS102.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]