常压多色同浴染色新技术在机织物上的应用  

Application of Atmospheric Pressure Multi-color Bath Dyeing Technology on Woven Fabrics

作　　者：陈慧琳 彭林林 王子涵 周小琴 李秋宇[1,2] 李天源 张俊峰 陆东东 CHEN Huilin;PENG Linlin;WANG Zihan;ZHOU Xiaoqin;LI Qiuyu;LI Tianyuan;ZHANG Junfeng;LU Dongdong(School of Materials Design&Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China;Beijing Key Laboratory of Clothing Materials R&D and Assessment,Beijing 100029,China;Key Lab for Sport Shoes Upper Materials of Fujian Province,Fujian Huafeng New Material Co.,Ltd.,Putian Fujian 351164,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院材料设计与工程学院,北京100029 [2]北京市服装材料研究开发与评价重点实验室,北京100029 [3]福建省运动鞋面料重点实验室,福建华峰新材料有限公司,福建莆田351164

出　　处：《北京服装学院学报（自然科学版）》2024年第2期11-17,共7页Journal of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology：Natural Science Edition

基　　金：福建省运动鞋面料重点实验室(福建华峰新材料有限公司)开放基金项目(KLSSUM233);北京服装学院2022年大学生创新创业训练计划项目(NHFZ20220156)。

摘　　要：从纱线选择、组织结构、色彩搭配、染色工艺、性能测评等方面验证常压多色同浴染色新技术在机织物上应用的可行性。按预期设计要求进行小样试织试染,并对染后机织物的透气性、耐摩擦色牢度和耐皂洗色牢度性能进行了测试。结果表明:不同结构的阳离子改性涤纶和其他纤维交织的机织物能够实现常压多色同浴染色,染料上染率高,染色残液清澈透明,可重复使用;织物的耐摩擦色牢度和耐皂洗色牢度均在4级及以上,样布具有良好的染色牢度;织物透气性好,含有三角形横截面微观结构的新型常压阳离子染料可染涤纶织物比圆形横截面的常规涤纶织物更有利于空气的流通。The feasibility of applying the new technology of atmospheric pressure multi-color bath dyeing on woven fabrics was verified from the aspects of yarn selection,fabric organization,color matching,dyeing process,and fabric performance evaluation,etc.According to the expected design requirements,fabric samples were first woven out and dyed,and then the air permeability,color fastness to rubbing and color fastness to soaping of the obtained fabrics were tested.The results show that woven fabrics interwoven with cationic modified polyester and other fibers of different structures can achieve atmospheric pressure multi-color one-bath dyeing,with a high dye uptake rate,and the residual dyeing liquid is clear and reusable.The color fastness to rubbing and color fastness to soap-washing of the fabric are both at grade 4 and above,and the sample cloth has good dyeing fastness.The fabric has good air permeability,and the novel atmospheric pressure cationic dyeable polyester fabric with a triangular cross-section microstructure is more conducive to air circulation than conventional polyester fabrics with a circular cross-section.

关 键 词：新型常压阳离子染料可染涤纶 面料组织设计 多色同浴常压染色 多色机织物 先织后染 

分 类 号：TS193[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]