麻赛尔/涤纶女士经起花衬衫面料的设计  

Design of marcel/polyester warp jacquard shirt fabric for women

作　　者：张显华[1] 田统一 张金玉 ZHANG Xianhua;TIAN Tongyi;ZHANG Jinyu(College of Textile,Henan University of Engineering,Zhengzhou 450007,Henan,China)

机构地区：[1]河南工程学院纺织工程学院,河南郑州450007

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2024年第6期42-44,共3页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：河南工程学院博士基金项目(D2017005);2023河南省高校大学生创新创业训练计划项目(202311517015)。

摘　　要：针对春夏季女士衬衫面料,采用麻赛尔/涤纶25/75混纺纱,经起花组织,设计的面料平整、手感柔软、滑爽舒适、色泽鲜明。纹样为山形,花经∶地经=1∶1,花经S捻,地经Z捻,纬纱Z捻,地组织为平纹,布边为纬重平组织。染色采用分散染料和活性染料两步两浴法,再经过络筒、整经工序,使用变性PVA和水溶性变性淀粉为主的混合浆料以及氯氧双漂工艺。所设计面料具有吸湿排汗、抗菌防霉、亲肤舒适等性能。For women's shirt fabric in spring and summer,the mixed yarn of marcel/polyester(25/75)is adopted,and the designed fabric is flat,soft,smooth and comfortable with bright color through the warp-textured structure.The pattern is of mountain shape,the warp∶the ground warp is 1∶1,the flower warp is S twist,the ground warp is Z twist,the weft yarn is Z twist,the ground weave is plain weave,and the selvage edge is weft rib weave.Dyeing using a two-step two-bath method with disperse dyes and reactive dyes,and then followed by winding and warping processes,sizing with a mixture of denatured PVA and water-soluble denatured starch,and bleaching with a chlorine-oxygen double-bleach process.The designed fabric has the properties such as moisture absorption,sweat wicking,antibacterial and mold resistant,and skin friendly comfort.

关 键 词：女士衬衫 涤纶 麻赛尔 混纺纱 经起花 

分 类 号：TS106.83[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]