江南色织土布组织结构变化规律研究——以皮球花纹为例  

Research on the change rules of weave structure in the Jiangnan yarn-dyed homespun——taking the Piqiuhua pattern as an example

作　　者：邓璐瑶 钱彬 崔翔宇 薛文良[1] 刘蕴莹[1] Deng Luyao;Qian Bing;Cui Xiangyu;Xue Wenliang;Liu Yunying(College of Textiles,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学纺织学院,上海201620

出　　处：《产业用纺织品》2024年第5期38-44,共7页Technical Textiles

基　　金：东华大学文科预研究项目(2022Y005)

摘　　要：江南色织土布是一种以多种染色棉纱按一定配色规律织造的棉布,广泛应用于传统服饰和家居产品中。其丰富的组织纹样和色彩构成作为独特的文化载体,蕴含了江南人民的审美和纺织技艺,参与构成了江南民俗文化的底色。基于田野调查和文献资料,以皮球花纹为例,结合实物图、组织图和配色模纹图,探究江南色织土布组织结构变化规律,以期为传承和创新江南色织土布提供参考。Jiangnan yarn-dyed homespun is a kind of cotton fabric woven with various dyed cotton yarns according to specific color matching patterns,which is widely used in traditional clothing and household products.Its rich weave patterns and color composition serves as a unique cultural carrier,embodies the aesthetic and textile skills of Jiangnan people,and contributes to the essence of Jiangnan folk culture.Based on field investigations and literature materials,taking the Piqiuhua pattern as an example,combining with physical pictures,weave diagrams and color matching weave diagrams,the change rules of weave structure in the Jiangnan yarn-dyed homespun was discussed,hoping to provide references for inheritance and innovation of the Jiangnan yarn-dyed homespun.

关 键 词：江南色织土布 皮球花纹 纹样 组织结构 组织变化 色纱排布 

分 类 号：TS115.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]