非遗传承视角下蓝染文化融入鞋靴的设计方法与创意实践  

Design Methods and Creative Practice of Indigo Dyeing Culture Integrated into Footwear from the Perspective of Non-Genetic Inheritance

作　　者：许栋樑 任珊 杨建红 XU Dongliang;REN Shan;YANG Jianhong(Institute of advanced Studies in Humanities and Social Sciences,Beijing Normal University,Zhuhai 519087,China;Qiandongnan Sun Drum Miao Dong Clothing Museum,Qiandongnan 556000,China)

机构地区：[1]北京师范大学人文和社会科学高等研究院,广东珠海519087 [2]黔东南州太阳鼓苗侗服饰博物馆,贵州黔东南556000

出　　处：《中国皮革》2024年第7期90-96,共7页China Leather

基　　金：广东省教育科学规划课题(2023GXJK538);广东省教育厅特色创新类项目(2022WTSCX180)。

摘　　要：本文从非物质文化遗产传承的视角研究蓝染技艺文化融入鞋靴类产品的设计方法与创意思维。首先分析了蓝染非遗技艺的历史发展、工艺方法与类别应用,进而结合中外优秀设计案例分别从蓝染文化要素产品形态、技艺方法、材料工具、图案色彩和文化内涵等角度提出蓝染文化融入鞋靴设计的3种方法:直接应用法、元素创新法和文化融入法;以国家级非物质文化遗产蜡染、枫香染为灵感和设计要素,通过设计案例以直接应用、重组应用和重构应用3种形式研究了蓝染文化融入鞋靴类时尚产品进行创意设计的具体思路和实践效果,重点以纹样的数字化提取与再设计进行了文化创意鞋靴的设计。通过理论方法的提出和创意设计实践,有助于推动传统手工技艺与现代时尚生活产品相结合,引领和满足大众对于文化产品的消费,研究对于不同类型的非遗文化开展创造性保护和创新性发展有一定的参考价值。From the perspective of intangible cultural heritage inheritance,this paper studied the design method and creative thinking of integrating the technology culture of Indigo dyeing into footwear products.First,it analyzed the historical development,process method and category application of Indigo dyeing technology.Then,combining with the excellent design cases from domestic and overseas,three methods of integrating the culture of Indigo dyeing into the design of footwear were proposed from the perspectives of product form,technique method,material tool,pat⁃tern color and cultural connotation,and so on,which is direct application method,element innovation method and cultural integration method.Finally,with national intangible cultural heritage batik and maple dye as inspiration and design elements,this paper studied the specific ideas and practical effects of Indigo dyeing culture.s integration into..footwear fashion products for creative design through design cases in three forms:direct application,recombination ap⁃plication and reconstruction application,and focused on the design of cultural creative footwear through digital extrac⁃tion and redesign of patterns.Through the proposal of theoretical methods and creative design practice,it is helpful to promote the combination of traditional handicraft skills and modern fashion life products,lead and satisfy the public.s consumption of cultural products,and the research has certain reference value for the creative protection and innova⁃tive development of different types of intangible cultural heritage.

关 键 词：非遗 蓝染 鞋靴 设计 

分 类 号：TS94[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]