亚麻干纺与湿纺织物服用性能及风格研究  

Research on wearability and style of dry and wet spun linen fabric

作　　者：贾旭 郁崇文[1,2] 张斌[1,2] JIA Xu;YU Chongwen;ZHANG Bin(Donghua University,Shanghai,201620,China;Key Laboratory of Ministry of Education for Textile Science and Technology,Shanghai,201620,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学,上海201620 [2]纺织面料技术教育部重点实验室,上海201620

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2024年第7期22-28,共7页Cotton Textile Technology

基　　金：国家麻类产业技术体系(CARS-16);上海市现代纺织前沿科学研究基地项目。

摘　　要：探究亚麻干、湿纺纱对织物服用性能及风格的影响。利用亚麻的长麻湿纺纱、短麻湿纺纱、短麻干纺转杯纱和短麻干纺赛络集聚纱织造了8种亚麻织物,测试了其服用性能和客观风格。结果表明:在服用性能方面,经纬纱均为短麻干纺转杯纱的织物较传统短麻湿纺织物的悬垂系数降低了31.11%,急、缓弹性回复角分别提升了4.14%和12.77%,透气率降低了49.81%,耐磨次数增加了126.67%,经、纬向的断裂强力分别降低了21.17%、42.34%。干、湿纺纱的交织物性能则处于二者之间。在客观风格方面,经纱纬纱均为短麻干纺转杯纱的织物柔顺度和丰满度较优,传统短麻湿纺织物的硬挺度和平展度较好,采用干纺纱与湿纺纱交织的织物则能够在保留传统亚麻织物手感挺括、布面平展的同时提升织物的柔顺度。The influence of dry and wet spun linen yarn on the wearability and style of fabrics was explored.8 kinds of linen fabrics were woven with long linen wet spun yarn,short linen wet spun yarn,short linen rotor spun yarn and short linen siro spun yarn.Their wearability and style were tested.Results showed that the drape coefficient of fabrics with short dry rotor spun yarn in both warp and weft was reduced by 31.11%compared with traditional short linen wet spun yarn fabric in terms of wearability.The immediate and delay elastic recovery angles were increased by 4.14% and 12.77%.The air permeability was reduced by 49.81%.The abrasion resistance times was increased by 126.67%,the breaking strength of warp and weft were decreased by 21.17% and 42.34%.The interwoven property of dry and wet spun yarn fabric were between them.In terms of objective style,the softness and fullness of the fabrics with short dry rotor spun yarn in both warp and weft were better.The stiffness and flatness of fabrics with traditional short wet spun yarn were better.The interwoven fabrics with dry spun yarn and wet spun yarn could retain the hand feeling,stiffness and surface flatness of traditional linen fabrics and improve the softness of fabrics.

关 键 词：亚麻织物 短麻干纺纱 长麻湿纺纱 短麻湿纺纱 干湿纺交织 服用性能 客观风格 

分 类 号：TS126[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]