棉经编五明治衬衫面料的开发与单向导湿性能  

Development and Unidirectional Moisture Conductivity of Warp-Knitted Five-Layer Sandwich Cotton Shirt Fabrics

作　　者：万爱兰 王晓晓 洪赵 WAN Ailan;WANG Xiaoxiao;HONG Zhao(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Jiangyin Fubo Textile Co.,Ltd.,Wuxi 214400,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122 [2]江阴市傅博纺织有限公司,江苏无锡214400

出　　处：《服装学报》2024年第3期215-222,共8页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：江苏省自然科学青年基金项目(BK20221094)。

摘　　要：为改善机织衬衫面料穿着时给人的束缚感及夏季穿着时的湿黏不适感,开发了3款具有单向导湿性能的棉经编衬衫面料。选用8.34~16.67 tex的涤纶和7.29~9.72 tex的棉纱为原料,利用前后梳成圈组织和中间梳衬纬组织形成经编五明治平纹结构,开发正反面亲疏水性具有梯度差异的棉经编衬衫面料。对面料的透气性、悬垂性、断裂强力等服用性能进行表征,并分析影响棉经编衬衫面料单向导湿性能的因素。结果表明,3款面料的服用性能符合日常衬衫面料的穿着使用要求,且具有优异的单向导湿性能,其中工艺反面涤纶分布密度适中的面料单向导湿性能综合评价最佳,单向导湿指数为407.1%,液态水动态传递指数为1,两项指标评级均达到5级。In order to improve the sense of restraint when wearing woven shirt fabrics and the uncomfortable feeling of wetness when wearing shirt fabrics in summer,three types of cotton warp knitted shirt fabrics with unidirectional moisture conductivity have been designed.Polyester of 8.34~16.67 tex and cotton yarn of 7.29~9.72 tex were selected as raw materials.To prepare cotton warp-knitted shirt fabrics with differing hydrophilic and hydrophobic moisture gradients,the front and the back guide bars knitted loop and middle guide bar knitted weft insertion,forming the five-layer sandwich structure fabric.At the same time,the wearing properties of the fabrics such as air permeability,drape and breaking strength were characterized and the factors affecting the unidirectional moisture conductivity of cotton warp knitted shirt fabrics were analyzed.The results showed that the properties of the three types of fabrics met the requirements of daily wear of shirt fabrics and had good unidirectional moisture conductivity.Among them,the fabric sample with a moderate distribu-tion density of polyester on the reverse side had the best unidirectional moisture conductivity.The one-way transport index was 407.1%,the liquid water dynamic transfer index was 1 and the ratings of both had reached level 5.

关 键 词：单向导湿 棉经编衬衫面料 结构设计 经编五明治平纹结构 服用性能 

分 类 号：TS184.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]