香云纱真丝织物抗紫外线性能研究进展  

Research progress on the UV resistance of fabrics made of gambiered Guangdong gauze

作　　者：陈佳桦 邹世杰 吴炜 郑晶晶[1,2] 吕健元 CHEN Jiahua;ZOU Shijie;WU Wei;ZHENG Jingjing;L Jianyuan(School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Ministry of Education,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Key Laboratory of Advanced Textile Materials and Manufacturing Technology,Ministry of Education,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Zhejiang Kaiyuan Cultural Development Co.,Ltd.,Huzhou 313200,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学先进纺织材料与制备技术教育部重点实验室,杭州310018 [3]浙江开源文化发展有限公司,浙江湖州313200

出　　处：《丝绸》2024年第7期64-73,共10页Journal of Silk

基　　金：浙江省教育厅一般科研项目(Y202353495)。

摘　　要：香云纱作为国家级非物质文化遗产,是世界纺织品中唯一用纯植物染料染色的丝绸面料,具有天然环保、挺括顺滑、抗菌除臭、防晒防水等优势,被誉为“软黄金”。现阶段由于臭氧层的严重破坏,对人类健康及其他方面产生重要威胁,织物抗紫外线性能研究逐渐成为纺织品行业的重要方向。相比于普通真丝织物,香云纱由于特殊染整工艺,具有优异的紫外线防护性能。但该染整过程较为传统,实际生产具有较大限制,行业产业化率低。基于此文章综述了香云纱特殊染整工艺及其抗紫外线性能、其他真丝织物抗紫外线研究等内容,总结了香云纱抗紫外线染整过程存在的问题与改进方向,并对其发展趋势进行了展望,以指导实际生产应用,为未来香云纱产品设计创新及性能改善提供借鉴,提升产品服用性能,推动行业发展。As an important part of national intangible cultural heritage in China,gambiered Guangdong gauze is the only silk fabric in the world that is dyed with pure plant dyes.With unique advantages such as coolness and comfort,environmental protection,antibiosis and deodorization,sun-resistance and water resistance,and certain health benefits for the skin,it is known as“soft gold”.However,it relies heavily on artificial and natural environments for dyeing and finishing.Currently,most research mainly focuses on the dyeing ingredients of Dioscorea cirrhosa Lour and river mud.There is little research on its update of dyeing modes,further improvement in performance of wearing,and design innovation.In recent years,due to the extensive use of substances such as chlorofluorocarbons(CFCs),carbon tetrachloride(CCl4),and methane(CH4),the destruction of the ozone layer has been accelerated.This has led to a significant increase in ultraviolet radiation reaching the ground,endangering the ecological environment and the survival of humans and other organisms.The energy of solar radiation is mainly concentrated in visible light,infrared and ultraviolet regions.Excessive and strong ultraviolet radiation can easily cause sunstroke,skin burns,basal cell carcinoma of the skin and other diseases.But as silk is precisely composed of a large amount of protein fibers,it is prone to yellowing,aging,and even pulverization after UV radiation,which affects the beauty and performance of fabrics.Therefore,research on the UV resistance of silk fabrics is imminent.This article,starting with the special dyeing and finishing technique of gambiered Guangdong gauze,summarized the historical origins,research value,and the principle that its UV resistance is superior to other silk fabrics.Its dyeing and finishing process,a pure handmade technique that combines plant dyeing(Dioscorea cirrhosa Lour)and mineral dyeing(river mud),is completed through multiple complex processes of“thrice steaming,nine times of boiling,and eighteen times of drying”,main

关 键 词：香云纱 国家级非物质文化遗产 真丝织物 抗紫外线改性处理 绿色低碳 多功能性丝绸 

分 类 号：TS101.923[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]