宋代公服金革带的形制及多元文化内涵研究  

Research on the form and multicultural connotation of the golden leather belt in the Song Dynasty

作　　者：季晓芬 陈斯雅 蔡丽玲 JI Xiaofen;CHEN Siya;CAI Liling(School of International Education,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;China National Silk Museum,Hangzhou 310002,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学国际教育学院,杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学服装学院,杭州310018 [3]中国丝绸博物馆,杭州310002

出　　处：《丝绸》2024年第7期125-132,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：浙江省哲学社会科学规划项目(24NDJC170YB);浙江理工大学科研基金启动项目(23196023-Y)。

摘　　要：金革带是宋代公服中体现官员品级的重要标志之一,现有研究鲜有对其文化内涵进行深入分析。文章结合出土文物、图像和古籍文献,深入探究宋代公服中金革带的形制及背后所蕴含的多元文化内涵。研究表明:宋代金革带形制特征的独特性深受外来多元文化影响。在结构上,北方游牧民族实用主义观念与儒家“尊卑有序”的价值观相融合,使革带从悬挂工具的物件转为身份品级的象征。在工艺上,西亚浑厚质朴的金属加工技艺与宋代理学影响下的审美趣味交融,共同缔造出纹样生动、工艺朴实的金带銙。在纹样上,萨珊风格中人狮搏斗题材的装饰文化与华夏“天人合一”和谐理念的巧妙融合,形成人狮和谐的狮蛮纹样。总之,宋代金革带的形制不仅体现了官员的身份地位,更是宋代社会风貌和多元文化相互融合的重要典范。The official uniform of the Song Dynasty stands out for its simplicity,with the golden leather belt around the waist being its most distinctive feature and an important indicator for distinguishing official ranks.The golden leather belt not only possesses unique stylistic characteristics,but also embodies diverse cultural connotations,which helps deepen people’s understanding and recognition of the clothing style and cultural phenomena of the Song Dynasty.This article delves into the golden leather belt in the official uniform of the Song Dynasty through a combination of excavated artifacts,images,and ancient literary records.The research reveals that the golden leather belt,as an essential accessory for officials,is elongated in shape and adorned with gold buckles and tailpieces at both ends,with the belt styles being double-buckle or single-buckle.The belt plate,serving as the core component,varies in shape,arrangement,pattern,and weight.There are two types of belt plate arrangements:a combination of round and square plates and a solely tight arrangement of square plates.Patterns on the belt plates,such as ball-and-road patterns,imperial fairy flower patterns,and lychee patterns,not only reflect the noble status of officials but also represent the aesthetic tastes and cultural characteristics of the Song society.The research further discovers that the imperial fairy flower pattern is slightly superior to the lychee pattern,and the lychee pattern is not a simplified version of the imperial fairy flower pattern.The weight difference in patterns subtly reflects the status of officials.Therefore,the golden leather belt is closely related to the court etiquette of the Song Dynasty,becoming a symbol of the noble status of high-ranking officials.In addition,the uniqueness of the stylistic features of the golden leather belt in the Song Dynasty is profoundly influenced by foreign multiculturalism.Structurally,the fusion of the utilitarian concept of northern nomadic peoples and the Confucian value of“priority in ra

关 键 词：宋代公服 金革带 带銙 形制 礼仪文化 多元文化 

分 类 号：TS941.11[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] J526.1[艺术—艺术设计]