壮族传统服饰的演变解析——以广西龙胜壮族女子服饰为例  

Analysis on the evolution of Zhuang traditional costumes:A study of Longsheng Zhuang women’s clothing in Guangxi

作　　者：匡迁 KUANG Qian(College of Design,Guangxi Arts Universuty,Nanning 530001,China)

机构地区：[1]广西艺术学院设计学院,南宁530001

出　　处：《丝绸》2024年第7期141-148,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金艺术学青年项目(20CG190)。

摘　　要：壮族传统服饰的演变是壮族服饰文化组成部分,蕴含丰富的壮族文化信息。文章以历史文献为依据,从壮族传统服饰历史演变线索及田野调查入手,通过梳理壮族传统服饰演变历程,且以广西龙胜壮族传统服饰的演变为例,对比分析了演变过程中的“变”与“不变”的服饰谱系基质因子。并对壮族的社会变迁与文化交融、生活方式与环境变化、民族共同意识等耦合视角因素进行探讨,初步明晰了壮族传统服饰演变的动因通常是多种因素同时作用的结果,为深入研究壮族传统服饰谱系研究提供一定理论参考。The Zhuang ethnic minority,the most populous ethnic minority in China,boasts a long history and splendid national culture.The evolution of Zhuang traditional costumes is an important part of the Zhuang costume culture,and has become a special carrier of Zhuang culture,reflecting the lifestyle of the Zhuang and containing rich information about Zhuang culture.Using a combination of historical documentary information and field research and investigation methods,the article finds through the field investigation of the traditional costumes of the Zhuang women in the Qing Dynasty and the contemporary Longsheng Zhuang costumes collected by the Longji Zhuang Eco-museum of Longsheng,Guangxi Province that the form,structure and decoration of the contemporary Longsheng Zhuang costumes have changed significantly from those of Longsheng Zhuang costumes of the Qing Dynasty,which is a typical example of the development and evolution of the traditional costumes of the Zhuang people.The article focuses on the comparative analysis of the genealogical matrix characteristics of the Longsheng Zhuang traditional costumes in Guangxi and the contemporary costumes in an attempt to analyze the characteristics of the development and evolution of the Zhuang traditional costumes and to summarize the evolutionary factors.With focus on the comparative analysis of the shape,structure,decoration and other clothing genealogical matrix characteristics of the traditional and contemporary costumes of Longsheng Zhuang people in Guangxi,the article explores the“changing”and“unchanging”costume genealogical matrix factors in the process of costume evolution,and discusses the coupling perspectives of social change and cultural integration,life style and environmental change,and common ethnic consciousness of the Zhuang people.The article initially clarifies that the motivation of the evolution of the traditional costumes of the Zhuang people is often the result of the simultaneous action of a variety of factors,and it provides certain theoretica

关 键 词：壮族 传统服饰 演变 形制 结构 装饰 因素 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]