维多利亚时期欧洲盒式吊坠研究  

A Study of Locket in Victorian Europe

作　　者：赵文瑄 李耿[1] Fabian Schmitz ZHAO Wenxuan;LI Geng;Fabian Schmitz(School of Gemmology,China University of Geosciences(Beijing),Beijing 100083;Rhein Main Gem Consulting,Mainz,Germany 55118)

机构地区：[1]中国地质大学(北京)珠宝学院,北京100083 [2]Rhein Main宝石咨询公司,德国美因茨55118

出　　处：《中国宝玉石》2024年第3期16-22,共7页China Gems & Jades

摘　　要：欧洲盒式吊坠(Locket)是一种可以开合的存放纪念物的小容器,可以在其中保存照片或微绘画像等物品。它起源于多世纪以前,盛行于维多利亚时期,直至今日依旧被珠宝品牌使用其表现形式,可见影响之久。本文以维多利亚时期欧洲盒式吊坠为研究对象,从它的历史来源与发展、材料形制、工艺功能及文化价值四方面进行研究。其历史来源于古代护身符,盛行于维多利亚时期,延续至今。材料多使用金属、彩色宝玉石及有机宝石等,形制主要为各种几何形状。制作工艺有金属工艺、微型肖像工艺、琅工艺、卡梅奥工艺等。功能以实用装饰性与情感表达相结合为主。佩戴者通过盒式吊坠与所放物品联系之人进行情感沟通,具有心灵疗愈效果,为现代首饰设计提供创作思路。The European Locket is a type of hinged small container used to store keepsakes,such as photos or miniature paintings.Its origins date back to ancient times,became popular during the Victorian era,and are still utilized by jewelry brands today,showcasing its enduring influence.This study focuses on Victorian-era European Lockets,examining their historical origins and development,materials and forms,craftsmanship functions,and cultural significance.Originating from ancient amulets,these lockets were prevalent during the Victorian era and continue to be used today.They are typically crafted from metals,colored gemstones,and organic gems,with various geometric shapes.Crafting techniques include metalwork,miniature portraiture,enamelwork,and cameo engraving.The primary functions combine practical decoration with emotional expression.Wearers use lockets and the items they hold to emotionally communicate with others,offering a therapeutic effect and serving as inspiration for modern jewelry design.

关 键 词：欧洲 盒式吊坠 护身符 情感价值 

分 类 号：J53[艺术—艺术设计]