真丝织物的植物染料染色  

Dyeing process of silk fabrics with plant-based dyes

作　　者：赵宝艳[1,2,3] 夏建明 王华清[1,2,3] 倪宇超 孙锐[1] 周鑫妤 金阳波 ZHAO Baoyan;XIA Jianming;WANG Huaqing;NI Yuchao;SUN Rui;ZHOU Xinyu;JIN Yangbo(Institute of Dyeing and Finishing Technology,Zhejiang Fashion Instituteοf Technology,Ningbo 315211,China;Ningbo Key Laboratory of Intelligent Manufacturing of Textiles and Garments,Ningbo 315211,China;China Textile Engineering Society“High Fastness Plant-Based Dyestuff Research Base”,Ningbo 315211,China;Zhejiang Hexuan Technology Co.,Ltd.,Yiwu 322000,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江纺织服装职业技术学院染整技术研究所,浙江宁波315211 [2]宁波市纺织服装智能制造技术重点实验室,浙江宁波315211 [3]中国纺织工程学会“高牢度植物基染料科研基地”,浙江宁波315211 [4]浙江禾绚科技有限公司,浙江义乌322000

出　　处：《印染》2024年第7期38-42,共5页China Dyeing and Finishing

基　　金：宁波市“科技创新2025”重大专项(2021E002);宁波市科技局“揭榜挂帅”科技创新重点研发项目(ZJFFZB-2023-018);宁波市自然科学基金(2021J191);宁波市先进纺织技术与服装CAD重点实验室2022年度开放基金项目(2022ZDSYS-A-001)。

摘　　要：采用植物红和植物蓝染料对真丝织物进行直接染色,探讨了染液浓度、染色pH、染色温度、染色时间、元明粉用量、固色剂用量对真丝织物染色效果的影响。通过正交试验得到的最佳染色工艺为:植物红染料质量分数1.00%(omf),染液pH为3,染色温度90℃,染色时间40 min,元明粉质量浓度5 g/L,固色剂质量分数1%;植物蓝染料质量分数1.00%(omf),染液pH为7,染色温度90℃,染色时间55 min,元明粉质量浓度5 g/L,固色剂质量分数1%。染色织物具有较好的耐皂洗色牢度、耐摩擦色牢度和耐汗渍色牢度,基本达到3~4级以上。Direct dyeing of silk fabrics with plant red and plant blue dyes is carried out to investigate the effects of dyeing solution concentration,dyeing pH,dyeing temperature,dyeing time,sodium sulfate concentration,and color-fixing agent dosage on the dyeing properties of silk fabrics.The optimal dyeing process obtained through orthogonal experiments is as follows:1%(omf)of plant red dye,dyeing pH 3,dyeing temperature 90℃,dyeing time 40 min,sodium sulfate 5 g/L,color-fixing agent 1%;1%(omf)of plant blue dye,dyeing pH 7,dyeing temperature 90℃,dyeing time 55 min,sodium sulfate 5 g/L,color-fixing agent 1%.The dyed fabric has good color fastnesses to soaping,rubbing and perspiration,which basically reach above Grade 3-4.

关 键 词：植物基染料 染色 真丝织物 植物基固色剂 

分 类 号：TS193.63[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]